Foreign Affair Sailing

Peace On Earth - Good Will To All

Holiday Greetings! We are a rest with our families. Wishing all a Merry Christmas.

A Week in the Caribbean

We flew out of Charleston to Fort Lauderdale where we spent a night prior to boarding the Celebrity Silhouette for our week in the Caribbean. Our ship put in for a day in Puerto Rico, St. Thomas and Sint Maarten. Dwayne's brother, Brian and his wife, Janet traveled with us. We have visited these islands in the past and knew what we wanted to do while ashore. It was a very relaxing week. The weather was perfect - warm and sunny. The food was good and the drinks plentiful (the drink package was included as a perk). The on-board entertainment was entertaining. Carla really enjoyed having her morning coffee on the stateroom balcony. Overall, we had a wonderful time.

Preparing to Head Home for the Holidays

We woke early to help Jamie and Hailey get underway. They had a beautiful sunny day with favorable winds for their journey south. It was a bit chilly when they departed and it would feel colder once they were a few miles off-shore with nothing blocking the wind. We felt a little sorry for them at first, until we realized the cold weather here must feel pretty mild compared to what they were used to in Alaska. They did have plenty of warm weather gear with them and we didn't hear them complaining about how cold it was. They left with a smile bound for Florida and the Bahamas.

Alaskan Voyagers - Jamie and Hailey

One of the fun aspects of cruising is you never know who you will meet. We have met some unusual and interesting people during our travels. Today, we met our first couple sailing a boat with an AK registration number. AK is for boats registered in Alaska not Arkansas. We have encountered countless Canadians and seen the flags of many nations flying from the stern of vessels. However, this was the first Alaskan boat we came across.

Cass and Pete Visit

Cass and Pete drove up from Charleston to spend a day with us in Georgetown. They previously lived in Kansas. Now, they are both retired and enjoying a simpler life in the South. They have been following our blog and wanted to learn more about our adventure and plans for the future. We gave them a tour of Foreign Affair and spent some time aboard bringing each other up to date on the progress of our lives. It is amazing how quickly the direction of our lives can change. Who knows where we will be or what we will be doing five years from now. We ended the day with a pleasant lunch at the River Room Restaurant.

Maintenance and Relaxation

Monday, November 28. We changed the engine oil and fuel filters in the morning. We discovered we could no longer secure the cover to our raw water strainer because corrosion had stripped the threads on the post and wing nut to such an extent they would no longer hold. Dwayne will get a die and attempt to cut new threads for a nut a size smaller than the original. This currently looks like the easiest fix.

Farewell Paul - Hello Pawleys Island

We bid farewell to Paul. He is heading off-shore again bound for Florida. He had a couple of good days rest and is raring to get moving again. The weather looks good for sailing south for a couple of day before a front moves in which will create high winds. Paul will come in at some point to wait out the weather and then move on to his ultimate destination of Boca Chica/Key West.

Drive to Charleston

We rented a truck and drove into Charleston. Enterprise was out of cars and the truck was offered instead. It was a club cab which gave us the seating we needed. They gave us a 20% discount on the rental and 1/4 tank credit on gas since the truck burns more fuel then a car. It was comfortable enough. We'll drop it at the Charleston Airport when we fly out to meet Brian and Janet in Fort Lauderdale for our Celebrity Cruise to the Caribbean. St. Thomas, St. Martin and San Juan.

Another Day in Georgetown

Today was a maintenance day for the boats and boaters. Paul had a number of projects to complete on Enough. Having the truck allowed us to get parts and Paul needed a few items. Dwayne studied the cruising guide Paul had for the inlets on the Atlantic. A jump from Georgetown to Charleston will eliminate the challenges associated with shoaling at McClellanville and the restrictions on the Ben Sawyer Bridge. Charleston to Savannah would also be a good run off-shore. Frank and Carol did the run from Savannah to St. Simons because of a bridge closure today. Paul wants to go off-shore all the way to Key West. He's having a great time sailing south and likes not having to have one eye on the depth sounder to avoid running aground on the ICW. Dwayne also read Paul's copy of the American Sailing Association's Guide for Bareboat Cruising. It was a good refresher and had a few useful tips.
Too bad boat handling and navigation is not as easy as the book makes it out to be.

Happy Thanksgiving

We had a great Thanksgiving and have much for which to be thankful. Carla watched the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade while Dwayne and Paul found comfortable rockers on the marina porch. The sun was shining and warm weather continued to make us feel good. Of course, the high point of any Thanksgiving is the meal. We had all the traditional fixings: turkey breast, stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, cream corn and pumpkin pie. It was just the three of us. Much different than the Thanksgiving we enjoyed last year with a few hundred cruisers at St. Mary's, GA. We expect to be with our families next Thanksgiving. Foreign Affair will be laid up for the winter next year.

Enough Arrives In Time For Thanksgiving

Paul arrived early in the afternoon and anchored Enough just off our marina. Dwayne launched our dinghy to bring him ashore as Paul's dinghy is stowed away while he is traveling off-shore. He left Long Island a couple of weeks ago and caught up with us. The weather was very favorable for his passage with winds from the north most of the time and seas of less than 4 feet. Paul will rest here for a few days before renewing his journey south. We are amazed at his accomplishment.

Hakuna Matata Heads South

We bid farewell to Frank and Carol and helped them cast off. Hakuna Matata disappeared into the rising sun. She was headed south for warmer weather.

Relaxing in Georgetown

It was good to not have to travel and be able to just relax for a while. We passed time by sitting in the rocking chairs on the marina's sunny porch watching others coming and going. Dwayne and George developed solutions to all the world's problems while Carla and Carol walked the dog, checked out the shops on Front Street and hiked to the Piggly Wiggly for food. George finally got Earnie, a local marine mechanic, to tap out a broken hose fitting to the dripless stuffing box on Hakuna Matata which broke off while Frank was switching his heating and air conditioning system over to the heat mode. Fortunately, Earnie had the part needed and was able to make the repair without any complications. We ended the days with wonderful dinners and stories of our travels.

Marina at Great Sand Dunes (Myrtle Beach, SC) to Georgetown

We left Myrtle Beach with the sun shining and the temperature warming. The run to Georgetown was easy as there were no significant shallow areas or inlets to hinder our progress. In fact, we had good water depth the entire way, particularly when we were on the Waccamaw River which is very deep and wide. The wind picked up as the day progressed. It was blowing pretty good when we entered the marina which presented some challenges at docking. The marina was full for the evening.

South Harbour Village Marina to Marina at Great Dunes (Myrtle Beach, SC)

We cast off at 0715 with Foreign Affair leading and Hakuna Matata following close behind. We had a couple of problem areas to negotiate; however, we were on schedule to arrive at these locations at or near high tide. The tide along our route is about 5 feet which really helps a lot. We had no difficulty and the current pushed us along at over 6 knots all day. We were tied in and relaxing at the marina by 1500. Carla and Carol teamed up for preparing dinner - fresh green salad, fried chicken, french fries, squash and zucchini. Dinner in the sunny cockpit with no wind and 70 degrees temperature. Life is good.

Motts Channel Anchorage to South Harbor Village Marina (ICW SM311)

We left the Motts Channel anchorage at 0800 following one of the sailboats anchored with us. The tide was in our favor and we ran at 7 knots or greater for the first two hours. We slowed down as we came to shallow areas but our track from the previous day plus the 5 feet of extra water gave us good confidence in the water depth and allowed us to travel fast. We passed through all the problem areas with no problem. We took on fuel and pumped out our holding tank at Joyner Marina at Carolina Beach before heading into Snows Cut and on to the Cape Fear River. We only had a two miles to go after crossing the Cape Fear River before reaching the South Harbor Village Marina where we stopped for the evening. We were at dock by 1230 and looked forward to a restful, warm day.

Topsail Sound to Motts Channel Anchorage (Wrightsville)

Peace and Quiet left Topsail Sound about an hour before we did. They were headed to Wilmington which is about 12 miles up the Cape Fear River from the ICW. Departing Topsail Sound was easy as we had an extra 5 feet of water at high tide and a track on our chart to follow getting out. The channel from the ICW to the anchorage is narrow and can be a bit challenging at low tide. This was our third visit to Topsail Sound and we'll probably stop again on our way north as it is a very convenient, quiet anchorage once you get into the sound's deeper water. We anchor in about 10 feet MLLW.

Swansboro to Topsail Sound

We were underway at 0730. Peace and Quiet, traveled with us to Topsail Sound where we anchored for the evening. Duck hunting season is open and we heard shotgun blasts for the first hour or so. Then the artillery from Camp Lejeune joined in and we had the sounds of a small scale battle for the next two hours. Eventually, peace returned to the waterway and the dolphins appeared. We came across a pod of at least twenty feeding in Stump Sound. We slowed down to about 2 knots and let them frolic around the boat for about 45 minutes. There were a few juveniles who occasionally jumped out of the water which was a big thrill. Carla was really excited as she loves the dolphins. A dolphin sighting a day keeps the blues away. We saw our first dolphin on this trip yesterday. There will be many more to come the further we head south. The weather is getting warmer which is great.

Swansboro

It rained much of the night which was good because Carla had washed the decks using our anchor wash-down pump to draw water from the river which is brackish. The fresh rainwater was a great rinse and Foreign Affair sparkled in the late morning sunlight. It was still raining when we woke and it looked like it would continue raining or another hour or so. We decided to just stay put and wait for better weather tomorrow. We had a number of chores to do and with the temperatures forecast to reach the high 60s with sunshine, this was as good a place as any to do them.

Oriental to Swansboro

We made the 44 miles run from Oriental to Swansboro in 8 hours. Our top speed was 8 knots just before the State Port Terminal. Our slowest speed was 4 knots which was shortly after turning into Bogue Sound at the State Port Terminal. Our boat speed must have been about 6 knots and the current 2 knots or more. There was quite a bit of traffic at the inlet with numerous sport fishermen out. The Coast Guard and tow boats were busy. We saw one sailboat trying to clear a fouled prop. We heard a Carolina Skiff calling for help when his engine quit and wouldn't restart. We also heard of one sailboat grounded. We made it to Casper's Marina to refuel and anchored off Swansboro without any difficulty today. Several other boats joined us in this popular anchorage.

Oriental

It was a beautiful day in Oriental. The sun shone bright and kept the temperature comfortable all day. We did some more shopping. Our first stop was the farmer's market where we bought a bunch of bakery: pumpkin and cream cheese roll, bread, cookies, jam and a shrimp quiche. Next stop, the fish market for shrimp and haddock. A little further down the block, we stopped for post cards. Then the bank to use the ATM. Lastly, the hardware store for propane and rat poison.

Belhaven to Oriental

It was a great day on the waterway. We left Belhaven at 0745 with clear skies, bright sun and a brisk breeze. We were able to motor-sail much of the day on the wide and deep Pungo, Pamlico, and Neuse Rivers. Foreign Affair maintained her speed at over 6 knots and hit a high of 7.5 knots for a few brief minutes. We made the 45 mile journey in about 6 hours. To top off a great run, we were able to secure a complementary slip at the Oriental Town Dock. It was the last one open and we got there just ahead of two other boats. It is so shallow in at the dock, we are barely afloat. But we are afloat and very happy to be at dock in this very friendly small town. It has a lot to offer for cruisers on the ICW.

Alligator River Marina to Belhaven

November 9:  It was an easy day today. We covered the 45 miles down the Alligator River, through the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal and on to Belhaven in 7 hours. We cast off at 0700. Dwayne called the Alligator River Swing Bridge as we left the marina and it opened as soon as we arrived at the bridge. The channel was well marked and there was always plenty of water under us the entire way. River traffic was very light. Carla saw no alligators.

Coinjock to Alligator River Marina

Norfolk, VA ICW Mile 0 to Coinjock, NC

The wind continued to blow in the 10 - 15 mph range all night long. We could hear an occasional gust blowing through the rigging. We laid out a lot of chain to make sure we held. We anchored here last spring on our way north and were confident we'd stay put as the bottom was good mud and the Fortress anchor hasn't failed us yet. We slept in as we were expecting a short run of only 25 miles to our anchorage. However, we had numerous bridges and one lock to negotiate before getting there.

Mobjack Bay to Norfolk

We woke to a beautiful sunny day. The East River was serene. We took advantage of the calm conditions to swap the chain on our anchors making the Fortress the primary anchor. We feel the Fortress will work better than the Rocna in the mud we will encounter going down the ICW. It worked well for us in the past and never dragged. The Rocna dragged through soft mud while we were in heavy winds and waves off Rock Hall. We suspect it dragged some when we were anchored in soft mud off Reedville. We decided to make the switch trusting the Fortress will serve us better on the ICW. The Rocna is a fine anchor and we like it; however, the Fortress seems better in mud. Exciting, eh?

Great Wicomico River - Reedville to East River - Mobjack Bay

We had a good run from Reedville to the East River on Mobjack Bay. We were able to sail for several hours as the wind was on our starboard rear quarter. The waves averaged 4 feet and gave us a good push with the boat often surfing at 7 knots or greater. Mobjack Bay is quit impressive. It is a large bay covering an area 4 miles wide and 7 miles deep with 4 sizable tributary rivers. We headed up the East River to explore and anchor. Beautiful homes are sprinkled along the shoreline. There is one old water mill on one of the creeks feeding the river. It was a warm sunny day and we thoroughly enjoyed being able to poke around some parts of the Chesapeake Bay which we have not been as of yet. We are looking forward to having more time on the Bay next summer. Now, we are focused on getting south as quickly as possible without driving ourselves too hard. It is getting colder each day.

Solomons Island to Cocrell Creek on the Great Wicomico River - Reedville, VA

We had a good run from Solomons Island to Reedville a distance of about 45 miles. We were able to motor sail for a while with both main and genoa. We maintained a speed over 7 knots for almost an hour before we had to alter course which put us too close to the wind to continue sailing. When we dropped the main sail and rolled up the genoa our speed went down to 5 knots. The waters at the Potomac River's mouth were relatively calm which made for a pleasant passage. It is important to get across the Potomac in good weather as winds against the current can create very uncomfortable conditions. The forecast was for high winds beginning early evening and lasting a day or two.

West River to Solomons Island

We had a quiet night on the West River. We got underway at 0930. Some watermen were hauling in their crab pots near the river's mouth. They were the first we have seen since we returned to the Bay. Their deadrise boat was a pleasant and familiar sight - one we hadn't seen for a long time. We also encountered a fishtrap established on a shallow area just off the marked channel. These fish traps are a real hazard because they are sometimes hard to see in the day and impossible to see at night.

Rock Hall (Haven Harbour Marina) to West River

We spent the morning in Haven Harbour Marina doing chores and preparing for movement. Carla did some laundry. Dwayne used the 5 gallon can to get some diesel so we could change our fuel filters and add to the fuel tank. He replaced the old snubber line which was frayed during our night at anchor off Rock Hall with a new one. There was time enough to watch a short episode of Distant Shores while waiting for the wash to dry. The Shards have been sending out emails with links to programs which might be of interest to us. There two most recent contained links to segments of their TV programs on the Bahamas. They are both entertaining and informative. To learn more go to the following link. Paul and Sheryl have other segments also posted to YouTube.

1.5 Miles Due West of Rock Hall to Rock Hall

We had a bit of a ride through the night. The wind velocity steadily increased from the time we anchored until around 0200 when sustained winds in the low to mid-twenties with gusts into the low thirties lasted until about 0500. Waves increased to averaging 4 feet. At about 0230 the anchor started to drag.

Summit North Marina to 1.5 Miles West of Rock Hall

We left Summit North Marina with the tide at 1000. It was sunny, warm and a slight breeze was against us. We made good time through the C&D Canal and Elk River. It looked as if we would make our goal of reaching the Magothy River before dark until we got tangled in a crab pot at about 1600. The sun was in our eyes reflecting off the water which was quite choppy due to the wind. We caught sight of the float in time to put the engine into neutral; however, as the line ran under the hull, it snagged on the propeller. Dwayne heard the float bouncing against the hull.

Aboard Again

We are aboard again. Our trip to China was too short and too much fun. We visited Beijing, Xian and Shanghai. Highlights in each city are as follows: Beijing = Forbidden City, Summer Palace, and Great Wall; Xian = Terra Cotta Warriors; Shanghai = Bund/Financial District/Pudong River cruise, Maglev Train and Muslem Quarter. We logged thousands of miles on Hainan Airlines. The hotels were luxurious and we ate very well. We were on the go from early morning until late evening. We are looking forward to getting underway again heading south and wintering in the Bahamas.

Summit North Marina to Columbia, MD (October 15 - 17)

We moved Foreign Affair from a facing dock to a slip to clear the marina channel for the dredging and to leave our boat where it can be better monitored by the marina staff while we are away on our trip to China.

We drove to Columbia to stay with Dwayne's brother to make final preparations for our trip. Brian and Janet will be going with us. Brian is the master of finding great bargains on cruises and tours.

Magothy River to Summit North Marina

We spent the night anchored behind Dobbins Island inside the mouth of the Magothy River and west of Gibson Island. This is one of our favorite anchorages. There is plenty of depth and the waters in the Magothy are always calm even when the waves are high on the Bay. Three other sail boats anchored near us for the evening. We had sun-downers in the cockpit on a warm autumn night.

Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race

We weighed anchor at 1030 and joined the schooners heading toward the Bay Bridge for the start of the Great Chesapeake Bay Schooner Race. The course runs from just south of the Bay Bridge (Annapolis, MD) to Old Point Comfort, Hampton, Virginia. The course distance is about 125 statute miles; however, the schooners will most most likely have to tack or alter course based on the wind. As a result, the total distance traveled ends up being more than the "as the crow flies" distance. The record run for the race was 11 hours 18 minutes which was done in heavy winds. However, most of the time it takes about 18 - 24 hours to complete the course.

Summit North Marina to Rock Creek - Patapsco River

It was a beautiful fall day - sunny and temperature in the 60's. We ate a leisurely breakfast before casting off bound for Rock Creek on the Patapsco River. We will anchor there for the night so we are in position to follow the schooner fleet to the starting line for the Great Chesapeake Schooner Race. The competitors will be coming out of Baltimore harbor further up the Patapsco.

Baltimore - Schooners on Display

The Great Chesapeake Schooner Race starts Thursday. Schooners are arriving in preparation for this annual event. Those arriving early are docked in Baltimore harbor while waiting for the start of the race. We drove down to see some of these great sailing vessels prior to the race.

The first schooner we encountered was When and If which is a 63 foot, John Alden designed schooner built in 1939 for General George S. Patton who intended to sail around the world until World War II disrupted his plan. When and If remained in the Patton family until the 1970s. Today, it is available for charter or yours to own if your pockets are deep enough. She is truly a beautiful vessel. We are anxious to see her under sail at the start of the race on Thursday.

Summit North Marina - Maintenance October 3 - 10

About every six months we have to take a week or so to do some serious maintenance. The salt water and sun really do some damage over time. The most time consuming task is washing, compounding and waxing the boat. Dwayne does the hull from toe rail down and Carla does the deck, cabin and cockpit. Maintaining the stainless steel is also a project for Carla. Other projects include changing engine and transfer oil; changing oil and fuel filters, cleaning the seawater strainer which feeds seawater to the engine's coolant system. We take turns cleaning the bilge. This time its Dwayne's turn. Carla maintains the teak. We do as much as we can while underway; however, you can't do everything if you keep moving every few days. Keeping the systems operating and maintaining appearances are endless tasks.

Summit North Marina, Bear, DE (Hurricane Hole)

We are way behind on posting to this blog. As a result, we have had emails and calls inquiring to our well-being and safety. We appreciate the concern of others and are thrilled to report we are safe and sound. Foreign Affair is in a well protected location at Summit North Marina in Bear, DE. The marina is located near the mid-point of the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal and is a hurricane hole marina. It is also our official home port. We launched Foreign Affair and began our journey from this marina in April, 2015. We will remain here for a while performing maintenance and preparing for our movement south for the winter. Our plans are to go to the Bahamas for the winter if that option remains a possibility after Hurricane Matthew passes through and the damage is assessed. We will be resuming daily posts to the blog to keep you informed of our activities.

Seven Seas Cruising Association Gam

Carla stayed in Columbia and did laundry while Dwayne returned to Camp Letts. Sunday is round table day at the gam. You get to gather with others of similar interests and share information. Dwayne spent some time with others planning to head to the Bahamas this winter. He spoke further with Chris Parker on our cruising style and plans for wintering in the Bahamas. Dwayne also met with experts on insurance both regarding the boat, as well as, health coverage while traveling outside the United States. Some time was also dedicated to learning more about the state of the yacht market and getting advice on things to do and consider when preparing a yacht for sale. Someday, we will be selling Foreign Affair. Dwayne closed out the day bidding farewell and fair winds to many at the gam who we've come to know and will probably meet again sometime in the future.

Seven Seas Cruising Association Gam - Camp Letts, Edgewater, MD

We arrived at Camp Letts in time for the continental breakfast. The seminars began at 0900. Dwayne went to hear Dave Skolnick's presentation: Offshore to the Bahamas. Beth and Carla took in Behan Gifford's, Exotic Ports: Favorite Cruising Destinations Around the World. Behan, her husband and their three kids have been exploring the world in their Stevens 47 since 2008. Go to the following link for more on the Gifford family.

Annapolis and Seven Seas Cruising Association Gam

We slept in and it felt good to do so. Breakfast was whatever you could make for yourself or get someone to make for you. Shortly after breakfast, we were off to Annapolis. Beth had never been there before. So, she was excited to see the historic harbor she had heard so much about. Carla wanted to shop for some clothes she needed for our China trip in October and our Caribbean cruise in December. (Brother Brian found some travel deals we couldn't pass up.) Dwayne needed filters and parts for Foreign Affair. Dwayne dropped off Carla and Beth on West Street and he headed off to Bayshore Marine for fuel and oil filters. We all ate lunch at Chick and Ruth' - lump crab and malts.

Summit North Marina to Columbia, MD (By Car)

We began the morning with a visit from Bill and Helen of Alembic, a Whitby 42 ketch. They are from Maine and began actively cruising about the same time we did. However, they are real Salty Sailors. They have journeyed from Maine to the Florida Keys, across the Gulf of Mexico, spent time in Central America and then traveled along the South American coast before heading north for a return trip to Maine. We have gone to the Florida Keys and as far north as Portland, Maine. Most of our journey has been in protected waters. They have been much more adventurous than us. They have confidence in their boat and are accomplished sailors. They are embarked on a great adventure.

Cape May, NJ to Summit North Marina, Bear, DE

We left the Canyon Club Marina fuel dock at 0830 bound for Summit North Marina on the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal (C&D Canal). The winds and waves had considerably increased since we entered Cape May harbor two hours earlier. The forecast for the Delaware Bay was for winds in the low twenties and waves on our beam 4 to 6 feet. Normally, we would not have ventured out into the Delaware Bay under these conditions as it has a reputation for being very nasty during a blow. However, we didn't want to get locked into Cape May for a week waiting for things to settle down which looked worse every day and the possibility of Hurricane Matthew hitting as well. Summit North Marina is a hurricane hole half way through the C&D Canal and the best place to be if a hurricane threatens this area. We decided to press on and hoped conditions got no worse or improved as we moved up the Delaware Bay and entered the Delaware River.

Great Kills Yacht Club, Staten Island to Cape May, NJ (September 27 - 28)

Dwayne was up at 0730 checking the weather to see if making a run to Cape May was possible without taking on more than we could handle. We didn't want to be sea sick for the 20 plus hours it would take us to get to Cape May. The forecast showed conditions deteriorating with winds building from the low teens into the mid-twenties and gusts adding 10 - 15 to the average. Waves were 2 to 4 feet and increasing to 6 or even 8 depending on the forecast source. We have been out in conditions like this before but not for extended periods of time in exposed waters like the Jersey shore. We decided to give it a go and hoped we could stay ahead of the foul weather. We could always retreat to Great Kills if conditions were too bad as we started to round Sandy Hook. If we didn't leave we'd have to wait at least four days for a favorable weather window to make the run.

Mamaroneck to Great Kills Yacht Club, Staten Island

It was a very still night and we all slept very well. Dwayne was up at 0530 starting the coffee and checking the engine oil. By 0600 Foreign Affair was ready to move. We all had a quick breakfast waiting for daylight. We finally cast off at 0630 bound for Great Kills Yacht Club on the southern end of Staten Island. The skies were clear and the temperature was a little cool at 53 degrees. We had to motor as there was little to no wind. It felt good to finally be on our way south again.

Beth Arrives

We spent the day provisioning and preparing Foreign Affair for our journey south. The weather for the past week has been perfect for a run all the way from Long Island Sound to the Chesapeake Bay. However, a front is moving down from the north and we are concerned we might not make it all the way to the Chesapeake before the weather goes bad. We really don't want to have to lay over somewhere waiting for better conditions. We are hoping for the best as Beth is joining us for a week and we would like her to have a great experience. We are happy she will be with us for the long runs down the Jersey shore and up the Delaware Bay. An extra person to stand watch during these long hauls sure helps with sail handling and improves the sleep plan.

Sagamore Hill - Home of Theodore Roosevelt

We drove over to the Doyle Sail loft in Huntington on Long Island to get the sail cover for our main sail. It had to be modified to accommodate the new Dutchman furling system we had installed. Our old system had two control lines and the new one has three. They did a very good job of making the modification and restitched the seams since some of the thread was showing signs of weakness. Best of all, they didn't charge us since we had to wait so long for the new sail and saved them time and money by bringing the boat to Huntington and picking up the sail cover at the loft rather than having them travel to our boat to install the sails. It was a win-win situation.

Mamaroneck, NY to Columbia, MD and Back (By Car)

September 22: We drove our car and the rental car to Dwayne's brother's place in Columbia, MD. We had only one short delay crossing the George Washington Bridge in NYC. Other than that, the traffic moved at a pretty good clip. It was good to be with family and enjoying a roof over our head and cable TV. Of course, Carla brought all our laundry so she could take advantage of the washer and dryer rather than going to a laundromat. We had homemade tacos for dinner.

Mamaroneck, NY to Mystic, CT and Back (By Car)

We rented a car from Enterprise and drove to Mystic, CT to get our car out of storage. Our first stop was the Mystic Seaport Museum where we had the super large fish and chips dinner at the cafeteria. We split one dinner since it consisted of big portions of haddock with fries and cole slaw.

After lunch, we headed to the storage facility to get our car. The pass code for the gate did not work when we arrived at the storage lot. Carla was able to squeeze around the gate to get to the car. It started without any problem. We were concerned the battery would be dead; but it had enough energy to turn the engine over. An unexpected surprise was the two front tires were pretty flat. Carla was able to drive the car and the storage lot gate had a sensor which automatically opened when a car approached. We were on our way and looking for a tire shop to get the flats repaired.

Eatons Neck to Mamaroneck

We were able to depart Eatons Neck with plenty of water under us as we scheduled our appointment with Nick, the sail maker, for just after lunch. We only had to travel about 5 miles to get to Huntington Harbor. We stopped for fuel and water at one of the many marinas lining the harbor's shoreline. There must be at least a thousand boats in slips or on moorings in Huntington Harbor. Foreign Affair has a Huntington Harbor mooring field permit on her stern which leads us to think Huntington Harbor was her home port in 2010. The harbor is very long, with a deep main channel and protection from all directions. Beautiful homes overlook the harbor all along the shoreline.

Port Jefferson to Eatons Neck (September 18 & 19)

We made the short hop of 20 miles from Port Jefferson to Eatons Neck where we anchored in the very small basin near the Coast Guard station. We were able to head off the wind enough to get some help from the genoa. It added 0.2 knots to our speed. We decided not to hoist the main sail since we had such a short distance to travel.

New London, CT to Port Jefferson, NY

Morning Fog kept us from getting an early start for our long journey to Port Jefferson. We left New London long after the bugle called the Midshipmen to breakfast. It turned into a clear, sunny day with little to no wind until about 1230 when we were finally able to roll out the genoa to gain 1/2 knot of speed in a whisper of wind. It took 10 hours to cover the 57 miles and we arrived just before sunset. Several other boats were already in the anchorage but we were able to find a good spot with enough swing room.

Newport,RI to New London, CT

We left Newport at 0730. The Norwegian Cruise Line's Gem was anchored just outside the inner harbor entrance. We suspected many of those aboard would be going to the boat show. At Newport Neck, we encountered the USS John P. Murtha (LPD-26), an amphibious transport dock heading into Narragansett Bay. We gave her a wide berth and watched her head under the Newport Bridge to most likely dock at Naval Station Newport. Later we would run the gauntlet of ferries crossing to the islands - Martha's Vineyard, Block, and Long Island.

Newport Boat Show and Lobster Night at the O Club

We decided to go to the boat show since the Newport show is one of the largest and you never know what you might learn or find useful. Like the Annapolis Boat Show, temporary docks are constructed so the boats can be shown "in the water". Smaller boats were also on display on trailers ashore. There were five big tents for the vendors. We stopped by the Garhauer booth to discuss a problem we are having with the outboard motor hoist ball mount unscrewing due to friction and how to fix it. The solution looks very simple but like many other "simple" repairs, it might be harder than it looks. The only surprise at the boat show was we couldn't find the Catalina yachts. They were listed as exhibitors but even those we asked couldn't tell us where they were on display. Odd.

Newport

We slept in as we knew we were riding out the weather. Strong winds and big waves in Block Island Sound were forecast for the day. We didn't want to try to negotiate The Race in unfavorable conditions. There is plenty to do and we enjoy being in Newport.

We headed for shore around 1100 to take showers, do laundry and buy groceries. Carla likes the laundry here because there are two washers and two dryers usually with no one using them but her. To top it off, they are free (no quarters needed).

Martha's Vineyard (Edgartown) to Newport, RI

The weather forecast looked good for our run from Edgartown to Newport, RI. Winds were to be 10 - 15 mph and waves 2 foot. The sun finally broke through the morning fog and visibility was improving when we slipped our mooring at 0730. The sun was shining bright by the time we were half way to Oak Bluffs and waves were about 1 foot. Winds were abeam and we were making good time. Four flocks of birds flew over and we knew it was time for us to head south. Autumn was in the air. It felt like it was going to be a wonderful day to travel the 10 or so hours to Newport.

Martha's Vineyard - Tisbury and Oak Bluffs

Once again, we boarded the bus in Edgartown and headed north to Tisbury and Oak Bluffs. Vineyard Haven in Tisbury is where we spent our first night at Martha's Vineyard and where most of the commercial ferries serving  Martha's Vineyard dock. We did not go ashore to explore Tisbury the day we arrived as it was late and we didn't feel like launching the dinghy. We decided it would be more convenient to tour Martha's Vineyard by bus while leaving Foreign Affair moored at Edgartown.

Aquinnah - Indian Pow-wow at Gay Head Cliffs and Lighthouse

We took the launch into Edgartown where we boarded a bus to Aquinnah where the local Indian tribe was hosting a pow-wow. The Wampanoag tribe has a small reservation near the Gay Head Cliffs and Gay Head Lighthouse, At one time the Wampanoags lived in Rhode Island, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Today, the two major tribal bands live in Cape Cod and on Martha's Vineyard. There has been a significant amount of inter-racial marriage between the Indians and the Black population of Martha's Vineyard. The pow-wow was very similar to those we have observed in Kansas. The meal we had was a bit different. We had smoke mussels, squash and rice. I don't think the Plains Indians ate many smoked mussels. For dessert we had some "Indian pudding" which we think was a warm mixture of pumpkin and cornmeal. It was thick and sweet.

Martha's Vineyard (Tisbury) to Martha's Vineyard (Edgartown)

We left Vineyard Haven- Tisbury at 1100 thinking we would arrive at Edgartown in time to get a mooring before the weekend crowd showed up. We were very much surprised to find all of the town mooring balls full when we arrived at shortly after 1300. The harbormaster was able to put us on a vacant private mooring for our stay. It was farther from the town docks but it didn't matter much to us as we were going to use the launch service instead of our dinghy to get into town.

Newport to Martha's Vineyard (Vineyard Haven)

We woke and found fog limiting our visibility. So, we delayed our departure until 0830. There was little to no wind. We motored for almost 10 hours and had 4 to 8 foot rollers rocking us all the way to Martha's Vineyard. We were then able to tuck in behind Gay Head and travel in the smooth waters along Martha's Vineyard shoreline to Vineyard Haven harbor. We ended up on a mooring ball outside the breakwater and decided not to go into town. Instead, we enjoyed our sun-downers and watched the many boats heading back into the harbor before dark. It was a long day and we were happy to have finally arrived at Martha's Vineyard.

Bristol to Newport

The sun was shining and the winds were light when we woke this morning. We decided to take the Bristol Yacht Club launch to the Herreshoff Museum which contains the largest collection of boats designed by the Herreshoff brothers and built at the Herreshoff Manufactory. Over 60 Herreshoff boats are in the museums's collection ranging in size from the 8 1/8 foot long dinghy, Nathaniel to the 75 foot long America's Cup defender, Defiant. Several personal yachts of the Herreshoff family are also on display to include Sprite, a 20 foot cat rigged boat built in 1859 and believed to be the oldest existing private yacht in the United States.

Fall River, MA to Bristol, RI

Hurricane Hermine moved further south and back out to sea. The winds subsided but were still from the north. We had the least protection from this direction. We decided to move to Bristol harbor which offers good protection from all directions but the south. We bid farewell to Battleship Cove and motored the 10 miles to take up a Bristol Yacht Club mooring ball. We remained on Foreign Affair all day. Carla did some more cleaning. We read and watched movies. The harbor was much calmer than what we experienced in Battleship Cove and the mooirng ball looked well maintained. The forecast for tomorrow looked good. If the weather is as forecast, we plan to visit the Herreshoff Marine Museum in the morning and then head back to Newport to re-provision and do the laundry.

Fall River - Weather Day

Today was the worst day of the storm. Hurricane Hermine moved closer to shore. Winds were in the 20s all day and gusts were in the 40s. The highest recorded reading was 48 mph. Waves were 2 footers in our protected harbor most of the day. We didn't leave the boat and just rode it out. Carla did some cleaning. We also read and watched DVDs on the computer. We had to move our portable generator to the companion way entrance (midship) to keep it running. There was too much movement at the stern and it would start surging when the boat's rocking got above a certain point. The storm was about as bad as the Nor'easter we rode out in St. Augustine last December at the end of the SAIL ICW Rally. We are relieved that the mooring ball is holding.

Fall River, MA - Battleship Cove

We made it through the night and were happy to find ourselves still attached to the  mooring. The wind blew fairly strong throughout the night (high teens and gusts into the twenties). The boat hobby horsed a little but it didn't bother us much. We were mostly concerned that the mooring would hold.

Newport,RI to Fall River, MA

Newport Mansions

Rainy Day In Newport

It was a rainy, dismal day in Newport. We spent time in the morning on maintenance. We changed the fuel filters and Carla cleaned the cabin. We stayed aboard reading books and watching a movie. It rained all day.

Wickford to Newport

We slept in and didn't leave Wickford until 1130. The wind was very light and in our face for the first hour but it eventually picked up some and shifted so we could put out the genoa and motor sail for a while. Eventually, we did shut the engine down and sailed into the wind for about an hour at a speed of 3 knots. Finally, we decided to end the torture and started the engine to complete the last few miles to the Coaster's Harbor Navy Yacht Club mooring ball. We are now members of CHNYC and get to use the ball when we are in Newport which has served as a hub while we have been exploring Narragansett Bay and New England.

We spent the remainder of the day buying provisions at the Navy commissary, doing laundry and taking showers at the marina. We plan to stay in Newport a few days relaxing and exploring the city.

Block Island to Wickford, RI

The 28 mile passage from Block Island to our mooring at the Wickford Yacht Club was made under clear skies. The wind was unfavorable for most of our trip. Waves were 2 to 3 feet and we had some sizable swells. We were able to motor-sail with the genoa for the last hour of our five hour trip. We arrived at Wickford at shortly after 1500 and decided not to go ashore as the wind and waves in the harbor where building. We didn't want to find ourselves bucking wind and waves while getting a wet ride back in the dinghy. We relaxed for the evening - reading books.

Block Island

After breakfast, we took the water taxi in for an early start on our hike across the island. We decided to cut down the center of Block Island and walk along the beach below the Mohegan Bluffs and then head through New Shoreham on the way back to our boat on the Great Salt Pond. However, before we began our journey we had breakfast courtesy of Aldo's Bakery and their delivery boat. Aldo's pastry boat slowly cruises through the anchorage and announces its presence with the crew's sing-song cry of "Andiamo . . . andiamooo!" We got coffee and croissants. Yum, Yum.

Newport to Block Island

Dwayne woke up early, took the dinghy ashore and walked to Stop and Shop to get milk and other provisions. He also picked up some 30W oil to top off our transfer since we were a little short of full after changing the engine and transfer oil yesterday. So, we left Newport with full fuel and water tanks and a stocked food pantry. The sun was shining as we cast off our mooring ball.

Onset to Newport

It was a long, uneventful day of 51 nautical miles with the wind against us at less than 10 knots. As we approached Newport harbor we came across six 12 Metre yachts engaged in a race. We diverted course so as not to interfere but remained close enough to get a good look at these beautiful racing machines. There was quite a distance between the two leading yachts and the rest of the fleet. The two leaders were less than a boat length apart. The tail-enders were also evenly matched and the lead changed among them several times while we watched. I doubt you could see such a spectacle anywhere other then Newport.

Plymouth to Onset

The weather forecast was not looking good - high winds and heavy rains. We were afraid we would be stuck in Plymouth for a couple of days waiting for a good weather window to make our passage through the Cape Cod Canal. Traveling through the canal can become very challenging if not impossible for us due to the strong current and steep waves when the wind opposes the flow of water through the canal. We needed to go with the tide and have winds in our favor to make a good passage. It rained and blew hard all morning in Plymouth; however, the winds gradually died down and by 1400 we decided to take our chances that conditions would allow for us to make it through the canal.

Plymouth

We went into Plymouth to learn more about the Pilgrims and their colony. A replica of the Mayflower was in the harbor. It is unlikely the real Mayflower would have been so close to the shoreline as Plymouth harbor is one of the shallowest we have encountered. You have to carefully follow a narrow, dredged channel to get as close to the shore as the Mayflower II. At low tide Foreign Affair had less than a foot of water under her keel and we draw less than 6 feet compared to the Mayflower's 12 feet. The Pilgrims most likely ferried themselves and their goods ashore on a smaller vessel. The shallow harbor would also benefit the Pilgrims as it might keep pirate ships at bay. We don't realize hundreds of pirates were operating in the waters of the New World at this time.

Boston to Plymouth

We had a beautiful day to travel the 40 miles from Boston to Plymouth. The sun was shining bright and the waters were relatively calm. The winds were very light and in our face for the last half of the trip. As a result, we motor sailed most of the way.

Boston - Tea Party Museum, Old State House, Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market

We started our morning tours with a visit to the Boston Tea Party Museum. This museum was voted the #1 museum in Boston and for once the #1 was indeed the #1. We had a fabulous, fun time posing as Indians and throwing tea into Boston Harbor. As we entered the meeting hall we were given our identity and a feather for our Indian disguise.

Boston - Trinity Church and Boston Public Library

We rode the hop on/hop off tour bus again. We made several stops. Highlights included Trinity Church and the Boston Public Library.

The Trinity Church congregation dates back to 1733. The current church and parish house were constructed after the Great Boston Fire of 1872 destroyed the parish's earlier buildings. The current Trinity Church took 5 years to build (1872 -1877). Henry Hobson Richardson was the architect and the church is considered one of the most important structures as it was the first and finest building in what is known as the Richarsonian Romanesque architectural style.

Boston - Navy Yard and USS Constitution

We bought a two day hop on, hop off bus pass to get a guided overview of the city and allow us to see more than if traveling by foot. Our first stop was the Charlestown Navy Yard which is now a historic district under US Park Service management.

Marblehead to Boston

It was a short 3 hour hop from Marblehead to Boston. We took a Boston Harbor Sailing Club mooring which was located about 100 yards off the New England Aquarium. We were right in the heart of Boston. The club's harbor launch dropped us at Rowes Wharf with its luxury hotels, multi-million dollar condos, high-end retail and award winning restaurants. Its good that many of the rich and famous are wearing shabby clothing. We fit right in when we went ashore.

Salem to Marblehead

We made the very short passage from Salem to Marblehead - 4 miles in less than one hour. We secured a Boston Yacht Club mooring ball. The Boston Yacht Club operates out of it facilities in Marblehead. The clubhouse in Boston no longer exists. This is the sesquicentennial of the founding of the club in 1866. Of the more than 2,000 yachts moored in Marblehead harbor. 400 belong to members of the Boston Yacht Club. Several other yacht clubs call Marblehead home.

Salem - Walking Tour and Peabody Essex Museum

It rained off and on during the night. The winds were really blowing - high teens and gusts in the twenties. The boat danced on its mooring all night. We were rudely awaken at 0600 when the tide, wind and waves conspired to cause Foreign Affair to slam against the mooring ball next to us. We suspect our mooring dragged during the night as we think there was ample clearance when we first arrived and the gap between us and another boat next to us seemed to have increased. We were able to bring in the mooring bridle a couple of feet which then allowed us to swing clear of the ball which was causing us problems. The winds eventually died down and we decided not to request a different mooring for the night.

Gloucester to Salem

We had to take a photo of one of the leading historical landmarks as we left Gloucester. The Tarr and
Wonson Paint Manufactory building has been the subject of art works by numerous artists. The building was constructed in 1874. It sits prominently on the tip of Rocky Neck. The company was best known for developing an innovative copper based paint which deterred fouling and infestation of vessels' hulls. Anti-fouling paint is important to boaters. This building is of interest to us not only for its appearance but also because of its history as a developer and manufacturer of anti-fouling paint. How exciting is that!

Whale Watching

We went whale watching today. We haven't seen any during our travels yet despite traversing along the edges of their feeding grounds. Whales are plentiful in Massachusetts Bay this time of year as they feed heavily on Stellwagen Bank and Jeffreys Ledge in preparation for their migration south in the winter to warmer waters and birthing grounds. They return to the north in the summer months. Whales migrate much like birds. Minke and Humpbacks whales are most commonly seen and the whale watching boats out of Gloucester were finding them about 20 miles off shore. So, we decided to let the experts take us whale watching and we learned much enroute and after arriving on Stillwagen Bank. The marine biologists on board did a fine job of describing the various types of whales and what to expect when we finally saw them up close. It was truly a marvelous experience.

Train to Salem

We decided to take the train to Salem which is a short distance from Gloucester. The round trip ticket was less than $5.00. We got to see the country-side which we would not have from off shore. Our first stop was the Salem Visitor Center where we watched two videos covering the history of Salem. From there we walked to the Salem Pioneer Village 1630 which was built in 1930 to mark the tercentennial of Massachusetts. It is the first living history museum in the US. Several buildings representing those of the early settlers have been constructed in a city park. Guides dressed in attire similar to what was worn by the colonists in 1630 lead visitors through the village structures and grounds while describing life in early Salem. We felt sorry for the reenactors as it was a very hot day and they were dressed in layers of cotton and wool clothing. They did a wonderful job and we learned much today about life in the early settlements of Massachusetts.

Gloucester - Hammond Castle

We took the MBTA bus to Hammond Castle which was built for John Hays Hammond, Jr. just prior to the great Wall Street Crash of 1929. The castle has been featured in the Travel Channel's "Castle Secrets and Legends" and "Ghost Hunters". Of course, the castle is haunted as proven by the cast of "Ghost Hunters". Hammond's wife, Eileen Garret, was a well-known psychic. Reportedly, she and her husband continue to enjoy their unusual home. We left before dark.

Kittery, Maine to Gloucester, Massacuesetts

We left Kittery at 0930 with winds less than 5 mph. The wind finally started to build after we had motored an hour. We finally found an opportunity to sail and by 1100 we had a good breeze abeam. We were really surprised to find ourselves consistently sailing over 6 knots. We reached a top speed of 7.3 knots main and genoa with the current. The winds were the result of a storm front moving in and by late afternoon we could see heavy rain fallling a few miles ahead of us. We furled our sails as the wind shifted to be on our bow. We were very fortunate as we found ourselves on the very edge of the storm and were able to move around it and avoid getting wet. The sun came out shortly after we entered Gloucester harbor which experienced very heavy winds and rain shortly before our arrival. We plan to remain in Gloucester a few days to rest and resupply. We really enjoy this quaint, compact harbor with so much history.

Portland to Kittery, Maine (Portsmouth, NH) - Heading South, Bound for the Bahamas

It was dead quiet when Dwayne woke up just after dawn. The fog was denser than we experienced last night. Visibility was less than 50 feet. Dwayne went back to bed. We didn't drop off our mooring ball until 1000. The fog had lifted enough so we could proceed out of the harbor and hope we would not find it worse on our way to Portsmouth. We had to skirt a few fog banks on the way. It took several hours for the fog to lift. There was no wind. We motored all the way. We were on the lookout for whales but saw none. We did see a large pod of dolphins. No seals were sighted.

As we entered Portsmouth harbor, we turned north and took the Back Channel between Kittery Point and Seavey's Island to take a mooring ball at the Kittery Point Yacht Yard. It was a very convenient location and out of the way of traffic moving into Portsmouth harbor.

Portland

It rained all morning and most of the afternoon. We stayed on the boat reading and doing chores until around 1500 when we took the Centerboard Yacht Club launch over to "Old Town" Portland. The waterfront and downtown area have been gentrified. The waterfront is up-scale condos and restaurants. The main street is the shopping district with more restaurants and boutiques. There are a few blocks of old buildings and cobblestone streets which give you some idea of what the port might have looked like in the past century. One day in Portland was enough for us.

York To Portland

We departed York at 0730 on the ebb tide. We traveled through the Gulf of Maine which is a feeding ground for whales. Dwayne saw what appeared to be a whale a great distance away but we did not head in that direction to investigate further. We did come across a large pod of about 30 dolphins a short while later several miles off Cape Porpoise. They crossed our bow and stern moving at a fast pace. We suspect they were feeding on fish. We later saw a couple of harbor seals. They would pop their heads up to check us out and didn't seem to care about our passing. We turned back to try to get a picture of one. However, he apparently was a bit shy. He dove and disappeared once he realized we were coming back in his direction. They are cute creatures with big shiny, black eyes.

Gloucester to York

We left Gloucester at 0730 with calm seas and no wind. The SSV Oliver Hazard Perry, was at anchor as we left the harbor. This ship out of Newport, Rhode Island is the largest civilian sailing school vessel in the United States. She is named after the naval hero from Rhode Island, Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, who defeated the British fleet in the Battle of Lake Erie during the War of 1812. There are numerous schooners sailing the East Coast; however, it is very rare to see a fully rigged, sailing ship. This was a pleasant and unexpected surprise for us as we departed Gloucester.

Gloucester Sunday

We slept in and had a big breakfast breakfast on the boat which resulted in our getting a late start on the day. We took the water taxi ashore and toured the Rocky Neck artist colony. There are dozens of artist galleries in Gloucester most of which are located on Rocky Neck. Many of the artists' works are of New England landscapes or a maritime motif. The cars of gallery visitors lined the street curbs and filled the parking lots near the Rocky Neck galleries and restaurants. We joined the hundreds of people enjoying a relaxing, sunny day on this small piece of land jutting out into the harbor.

Gloucester - Saturday

We had a quiet night on our mooring in Gloucester's inner harbor. We called for the harbor launch and took it to Jacob's Landing to begin our exploration of downtown Gloucester. Our first stop was the Cape Ann Museum which has a wide range of exhibits covering local and maritime history, culture and art. The museum director gave us a ride to the White-Ellery House which was built in 1710 and is now a museum holding. We were fortunate in that the house is usually not open to the public but a few times a year and the day we arrived there were several experts on old homes and their restoration. We had a great tour of the home with experts explaining features of this house which makes it a particularly valuable historical structure. We could not have asked for a better opportunity to learn about the early settlers and the buildings they constructed.

Onset - Cape Cod Canal to Gloucester

We slipped off our mooring at 0645 to enter the Cape Cod Canal with a favorable tide. The current in the canal can flow as much as 5 knots which can either give your a big boost if you go with the flow or slow your progress to a crawl if you buck the tide. We made the entire passage at the maximum legal speed limit of 10 miles per hour.

New Bedford to Onset

We had a short and uneventful run of 25 miles today from New Bedford to Onset which put us into a great position to enter the Cape Cod Canal tomorrow. We were able to grab a mooring ball belonging to the Massachusetts Maritime Academy and enjoy a peaceful evening before getting up early to catch the favorable tide through the canal.

Newport, RI to New Bedford, MA

Our run from Newport to New Bedford was short and easy. Two imposing engineering projects greet you at the entrance to New Bedford harbor. The most recently constructed of the two is the New Bedford Hurricane Barrier which is an almost 2 mile long rip-rap barrier with hydraulic gates providing access to the harbor. Constructed in 1958, it is the largest stone structure on the US East Coast. The next government engineering project clearly evident is Fort Rodman located on Clark's Point. A fort has stood on Clark's Point since the American Civil War. Fort Rodman was an active coastal defense facility until it was deactivated in 1946 shortly after the end of World War II.

A Day in Newport

Stonington, CT to Newport, RI

We spent a very rolly night despite the fact the winds were low in the evening. The breakwater did little to dampen the effect of the ocean swells We felt like we were experiencing a Nor'easter in St. Augustine. We haven't been rocked so badly in months. We agreed we would pass on anchoring in Stonington harbor again in the future.

Duck Island to Stonington

We departed Duck Island at 1030 after we moved the outboard motor from the dinghy to the motor mount inside the cockpit. The weather forecast was for winds in the teens and waves up to 4 feet. We didn't want the outboard on the dinghy in seas above 4 feet for an extended period of time because it places too much stress on the davits. Also, we will only be anchoring out once more before we start taking moorings for the rest of our trip to Portland and back. From Stonington onward we will be in the Atlantic rather than the protected waters of Long Island Sound. We will be able to use the harbor water taxi to get to shore from the moorings. So, we won't need the outboard mounted on the dinghy.

Huntington Harbor to Duck Island

We finally began our journey north making for Duck Island which lies at the mouth of the Housatonic River. We covered the 50 miles in 8 hours. Motored all the way as the wind was once again in our face.

Mamaroneck to Huntington Harbor - Our New Sails

Port Washington to Mamaroneck

On July 27, we crossed over from Port Washington to Mamaroneck to re-provision, pick up our mail, do the laundry and a few other tasks. The Sound was filled with kids taking sailing lessons as we approached Mamaroneck. Little Opti prams were everywhere and more numerous than the birds. The young sailors were being coached and looked after by adults in small powerboats. Teens taking lessons were sailing sloop rigged, centerboard boats like the 420. Some were getting experience with spinnakers. It still amazes us to see kids as young as 6 or so sailing such small craft a mile or more off shore and showing no concern or lack of confidence.

Port Jefferson to Port Washington

Three Mile Harbor to Port Jefferson

Three Mile Harbor - Weather Layover July 22 East Hampton July 23

The winds were predicted to be very high. So, we remained anchored in Three Mile Harbor to ride out the weather. Six other sailboats and two power boats had the same idea. We all remained in place throughout the day and night. No one dragged anchor. The holding here is excellent.

We stayed one extra day waiting for the waves on the Sound to lessen in height. Knowing we had a good set to the anchor, we took the dinghy to the town dock and walked into East Hampton to visit the Mulford Farm and Hook Windmill. Once again, Mulford Farm was closed. This time, it was due to a charity antique sale on the farm grounds. We walked back toward Old Hook Mill and stopped at the Citarella Gourmet Market for a deli lunch. After lunch, we walked over to the Old Hook Mill which was open for tours.

Old Hook Mill was built in 1806 and operated until 1908. It is almost completely made from wood to include the cogs, gears and other moving parts. The mill is one of eleven 18th and early 19th Century wind-powered gristmills still in existence on Long Island. The mill was built by Nathaniel Dominy V who was a prominent East Hampton craftsman. Two other mills built by him still stand today. The Old Hook Mill is the one of the most complete windmills open for tours.

Cutchogue Harbor to Three Mile Harbor

Our original plan for the day was to make a short hop from Cutchogue Harbor over to Shelter Island Sound and anchor at Southold early in the afternoon so we could go ashore and visit one or more of the many vineyards and wineries which are found on Long Island's northern fork. The area has been called the Napa Valley of New York.

As we entered Cutchogue Harbor, we encountered a large fleet of sailboats competing in a regatta. We reduced our speed and kept at a safe distance eventually joining some of the spectator boats to watch for a while. We were told it was a regatta with sailors from various high schools competing in One Design 420 sloops and another group was competing in Lasers. It was fun to watch as the wind was beginning to pick up and some of the kids were finding jibing quite challenging. Eventually, we departed to find a good spot to anchor with hopes of going ashore.

Three Miles Harbor to Cutchogue Harbor

On our way out of Three Mile Harbor, we stopped for fuel and a pump-out. While getting fuel, Dwayne noticed some divers cleaning hulls in the marina. He got their attention and talked them into putting a new anode on our driveshaft. We were wanting to get this done and since they were already on site, it only cost us $45 to get them to do it. Sometimes things come together in good ways.

East Hampton July 18 and 19

The winds were howling Monday. So, we stayed aboard and worked on Foreign Affair's "to do list". Carla re-caulked the galley sink and cleaned the cockpit. She spent the rest of the day reading and napping.

Dwayne worked on the blog and planning the next few days trip back to Port Washington and Mamaroneck. He also read and took a nap.

Tuesday was bright and sunny. We knew the anchor was well set. So, we went into East Hampton to see the sights. We passed by the Hook Windmill which was open and planned to see it on the way back to the boat. We discovered Mulford Farm was closed and would not be open again until the weekend.

We were able to visit "Home Sweet Home" which was next door. The museum is a tribute to John Howard Payne who wrote the song, "Home Sweet Home" in 1822. Gustav Buek and his wife bought the home in 1907 and filled it with items associated with John Howard Payne and furnished the home with 18th and 19th Century antiques. Our docent was very well-informed and we had a private tour.

Sag Harbor to Three Mile Harbor

A Big Cat - Three Men at the Stern Preparing to Launch a Tender

After stowing our provisions and hoisting the dinghy, we weighed anchor and headed to Three Mile Harbor for the evening. It was a short 6 miles which was nice. Three Mile Harbor is a scenic, lake like harbor with a narrow passage to the Sound. It is well protected by trees all around and the bottom is firm mud which makes for great holding for the anchor. About 30 other boats are either on mooring balls or anchored in this wonderful spot we were advised to visit by several other cruisers.

Lake Montauk to Sag Harbor

It was a bright, sunny day for our circumnavigation of Gardiners Island enroute to Sag Harbor. We were able to sail some despite the winds being light and not always in our favor. Gardiners Island has 27 miles of shoreline and covers 3,300 acres (6 miles long and 3 miles wide). It is the oldest family estate in the United States. King Charles I granted the island to Lion Gardner in 1639 and it became the first English settlement in what is now New York State. It is the only real estate in the United States still held by a royal grant from the English crown. The island is privately owned by descendants of Lion Gardiner, Lord of the Manor. Only family members and their guests are allowed on the island. Private property - No Trespassing.

One of the guests on Gardiners Island was the pirate/privateer Captain William Kidd. He came to Gardiners to bury some treasure prior to his appearing in English courts in Boston where he hoped he could clear himself of all charges against him. The treasure with the exception of a large diamond retained by Lord Gardiner was sent to Boston as evidence in the trial. Captain Kidd was convicted, sent to London and hung.

Mystic, CT to Lake Montauk, NY

We left Mystic Seaport in time to make the 1040 opening of the Mystic Highway Drawbridge. We had a very busy morning before our departure. We were up by 0630 and had a quick breakfast. Dwayne drove the car to a storage facility and walked the 4 miles back to the boat. It would have been a much shorter walk; however, the storage lot was on the opposite side of the Mystic River as Foreign Affair. As a result, Dwayne had to walk a mile on each bank to cross the river at the drawbridge. This added two miles to the total trip. It was a scenic walk back from the car and mostly shaded. So, it wasn't that much of an ordeal. It was downhill to the river and flat along the shore.

Carla spent the morning doing the last of the laundry, filling water tanks and generally preparing the boat for movement. She did a fine job of backing out of our slip and getting us headed downstream. We got through both the Mystic drawbridge and Amtrak swing bridge without delay. We refueled and pumped out at the Brewer's Marina just downstream from the swing bridge. We cleared the harbor by 1130 and were on our way across the Sound to Lake Montauk.

Sailing on the Mystic River and Goodbye to Ann and the Boys

We kept busy up to the end of the stay for Ann and her boys. Dwayne took the boys sailing in a classic wooden boat. It was a new experience for all aboard. It was a boomless, sprit rigged cat. This meant the boys would not get hit in the head with a boom if they failed to duck. It also meant, Dwayne had to learn how to control this rig which was an interesting experience. The boys had fun but liked sailing on Foreign Affair better since you didn't have to duck "ropes" and move around in the cockpit so much every time the boat changed direction. On Foreign Affair they just sat back and relaxed.

USS Nautilus and the Submarine Force Museum

We drove over to Groton to tour the USS Nautilus (SSN571) and Submarine Force Museum. Needless to say, the boys were excited. Well, we all were. The Navy has done a wonderful job preserving this historic vessel and telling the story of the US Navy's submarine service.

The USS Nautilus was launched in 1954. She holds several claims to being "the first". She was the world's first nuclear submarine, shattered all submerged speed and distance records, and was the first ship to cross the North Pole. She was decommissioned in 1980 and became the centerpiece of the US Navy Submarine Force Museum in 1986.

Essex Steam Train and River Boat with Lunch at the Griswold Inn

We drove over to Essex to ride the steam train and head up the Connecticut River on the river boat. The steam train consisted of an 2-8-2 Mikado type engine and eight Pullman cars from the 1920s. We rode coach class and found it quite comfortable for our journey to the river boat. The train ran along the southern shoreline of the Connecticut River on tracks once belonging to the Connecticut Valley Railroad Line which began operations in 1871. It eventually became part of the New Haven Railroad and the Connecticut River tracks became idle in 1968. The Essex steam train began operation as the Valley Railroad in 1971 after refurbishing the abandoned railroad tracks.

Mystic Aquarium

We spent the day at the Mystic Aquarium. It is definitely one of the finest aquariums in the country. The highlight of our visit was seeing the Baluga whales and being able to touch the sting rays in the ray pool. One of the most interesting exhibits was the jelly fish/sea nettle collection. The range in color and size of these creatures is fascinating. The largest jelly fish can grow to be over 200 feet long. We see quite a few small jelly fish in the Chesapeake Bay in the summer. We don't see a many on the Sound. Hundreds of varieties of fish were on display. It was a great learning experience for all of us.

Navigator and Dinghy Ride

Highlights of our day at Mystic Seaport Museum were visiting more of the 19th Century Mystic Village stores and workshops. Some had hands on activities in which the boys were able to participate. A favorite for all of us was the Nautical Instrument Shop which not only provided an education on the tools used by mariners to navigate their way around the world but also was the starting point for the Navigation Quest which was a geocaching activity on the museum grounds. It involved using a compass, telescope, map and GPS device. We had to follow a series of clues and directions to locate chests containing cards which once all collected were turned in at the Nautical Instrument Shop and redeemed for a prize - a compass. The boys were really excited each time they located one of the chests which they had to open with a special key made by the blacksmith/shipsmith. We all enjoyed this fun activity which was a good learning experience.

Sailing to Fisher Island, Mystic Pizza and Ice Cream

We woke to discover a lot of commotion on the shore by the Mystic Boathouse. Hundreds of swimmers were preparing for an annual 1500 meter swim in the harbor. Additionally, two training sloops from the British Royal Navy had arrived and it appeared as if the British sailors and marines were also participating in the swimming. The Mystic fireboat arrived just before the start and began to fire its water cannon. Needless to say, the boys were impressed by it all. It was a challenge to get them to come below for breakfast.

Whaling and Rowing on the Mystic

Carla's daughter and grandchildren were excited when they woke up. They wanted to get out and see all that the Mystic Seaport Museum had to offer. Breakfast was simple and quick - cereal.

We decided to head off the the whaling ship, Charles W. Morgan. She is the jewel of the museum. The Morgan is the last wooden, sailing whaler in the world. She was built in 1841 and hunted whales for over 80 years. Five years were spent to bring her up to prime condition for a tour of the US East Coast in 2014. She is a National Historic Landmark and visited by thousands of people each year. We spent the remainder of the morning in viewing the exhibits dedicated to the American whaling industry. We all learned much about the men and ships who sailed to all corners of the Earth seeking to fill their ships with whale oil and baleen which was used to manufacture items which needed flexibility or springiness such as umbrellas, corsets, buggy whips, etc.

Ann and the Boys Arrive

Carla's daughter, Ann arrived with her children, Samual and William. They will be with us for a week at the Mystic Seaport Museum. Ann and the kids were amazed at the size and extent of the museum. The boys were able to run around and climb the huge anchors which are scattered throughout the museum grounds. They were really excited when they first saw Foreign Affair and learned they would be sleeping aboard for the entire stay.

We took a stroll through the museum grounds after stowing the luggage and having a quick snack. Needless to say, the boys can hardly wait until tomorrow when they can board the ships and boats in the harbor and get involved in the activities of the day.

Thames River to Mystic Seaport Museum

It was a beautiful day for us to make our move to Mystic. The Coast Guard Academy rowing teams were out for an early morning practice session. The stillness of the morning was disrupted by the sound of the coach's voice which was amplified by a bullhorn. We awoke to the coach's litany of the names of the rowing team members as she shouted instructions and encouragement to the women.

After breakfast, we decided to take Foreign Affair as far up the Thames as we could before heading out to the Sound. The Thames is nothing like the 400 plus mile long Connecticut River. The Thames is a deep but short river and there is much more development along its entire length.

The Groton Monument which towers above Groton is a 135 foot tall granite obelisk erected between 1826 and 1830 lists the names of all the defenders of Fort Griswold who died at the Battle of Groton Heights on September 6, 1781. This battle was the largest to take place in Connecticut during the American Revolution. Fort Griswold guarded the town of Groton and the Thames River. The British under the leadership of General Benedict Arnold, who was a traitor to the revolutionary cause, captured the fort after heavy fighting. A large number of American soldiers were killed during and after the battle. As a result, the battle was sometimes remembered at the Groton Massacre.

Connecticut River to Thames River (US Coast Guard Academy)

Connecticut River

Mystic to Essex (Nott Island)

Essex to Mystic

We left Nott Island heading downstream on the Connecticut River back to the Sound bound for the Mystic Seaport Museum which will be our home port while Carla's daughter, Ann and her two boys join us for a week's vacation.


Entering the Mystic River is truly picturesque as many of the homes were either built in the 19th Century or constructed in styles reflecting that period. The Morgan Point Light stands watch over the mouth of the Mystic and Mouse Island. The lighthouse is quite substantial and serves as the focal point for boats entering the river's twisting channel. Mouse Island is nothing more than a barren rock slightly larger than a football field. However, several small, quaint houses lie perched upon this solid granite out cropping. There was so much to take in and admire upon first entering the harbor that we briefly found ourselves taking Mouse Island on our starboard rather than port side. We would have soon gone aground or worse yet holed the boat had we not quickly realized our mistake and reversed course until we got back into the main channel.

Milford to Essex

We slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. The weather forecast was for possible showers in the afternoon. It was cool and nearly windless. We weighed anchor at 0945 and motored all the way to the Connecticut River heading upstream as far as Nott Island across from Essex to anchor.

Elegant homes line the banks of the lower Connecticut River. There was quite a bit of boat traffic as we entered the breakwater at the river's mouth. Katherine Hepburn's home was along the shoreline not far from the Lynde Point Light. The small community of Fenwick is still a small, exclusive community.