Big Major Spot to Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay
We decided to
move to Great Guana Cay despite the wind being in the high teens with three
foot waves. We are getting used to
traveling in these conditions although we don’t like doing so for long periods
of time. The passage to Great Guana Cay was
a 3 hour trip with the wind and waves on our nose. The mega-yacht, Vava, dropped anchor not far from us the night before. On Shroud Cay, we shared some time on a beach with some of her crew members. We passed
close by Vava on our way out of the
anchorage but no one was on deck.
Big Major Spot – Day 3
The winds
piped up which created waves large enough in the anchorage to keep most
cruisers from leaving their boats. Some
fools were out on their jet skis hopping waves.
A couple of large tenders from the mega yachts were shuttling people
around but for the most part the anchorage saw little boat traffic.
Big Major Spot and Staniel Cay
We left Foreign Affair anchored off Big Major Spot while we took the dinghy over to neighboring Staniel Cay. It was about a two mile run but we managed to
stay dry despite some chop on the water between the two islands. We beached the dinghy at the Staniel Yacht
Club and dumped our trash before heading to the BTC office to inquire as to why
we had “limited internet” when we were right next to the biggest cell tower in
the Exumas. We were advised our
“unlimited internet plan” had some limitations.
$35 later, we were getting a very strong internet connection. As a result, we were able to get current
weather reports, check our email and post to the blog. Our next stop was the bakery and grocery
store. On the way, we ran into Earl and
Lynn who we met at the Warderick Wells pot luck a few days earlier. They too were headed to the bakery and joined
us for our short walk to the house where the bread was made and sold. There is no bakery store. All the baked goods are prepared and sold
from the baker’s kitchen.
Cambridge Cay to Big Major Spot/Staniel Cay
We left
Cambridge Cay via the south at half-tide rising since this route is very
shallow and if we ran aground, we would have some tidal help in getting
afloat. Once again, Triumph led the way and we were soon in deep water heading
south. The wind was on our nose and we
were plowing through four foot waves.
Two other sailboats were motoring south, as well as, a few mega
yachts. It was a rough ride for 3
hours. We anchored close to shore behind
Big Major Spot. The water was
considerable calmer in the anchorage. Over
two dozen boats of all types were there, as well as, a seaplane. We anchored about 200 feet from the seaplane
figuring if the plane could handle a storm here, so could we.
Cambridge Cay - Day 2
It was
another warm, bright, sunny day with very calm waters. We ate breakfast, loaded our snorkel gear and
set out in the dinghy for “The Aquarium” which is a prime spot to observe
hundreds of fish living off a very small cay and reef. Carla brought some mashed peas and carrots to
feed the fish. Fish were gathering
around the dinghy as we tied off to one of two dinghy mooring balls at “The
Aquarium”. Like the iguanas at Allans
Cay, they knew they’d get a free meal when they hear an outboard motor
approaching. We spent over an hour
swimming among the fish. Dwayne used the
GoPro camera to take pictures. We
decided to head further north in the dinghy before heading back to Foreign Affair for lunch.
Warderick Wells to Cambridge Cay a.k.a. Little Bell Island
Foreign Affair followed Triumph out of the Warderick Wells anchorage. We went out at half-tide rising so we’d have
some extra water to help us get over the shoals and yet have a chance to float
off on the rising tide should we go aground on the way out. The tide at Warderick Wells is about 3
feet. We made it to deep water without
any difficulty and set sail for Cambridge Cay.
The wind was from the east and light.
So, we sped along at a slow 3 ½ knots.
It didn’t matter as much as we only had to travel only about 10 miles to
the Cambridge Cay anchorage.
Warderick Wells - Day 4
The heavy
rain we experienced washed all the salt off the boat. Carla took this opportunity to wax and polish
Foreign Affair. A fair number of people were doing their
laundry using the fresh water they caught in their dinghies during the rain
storm. Everyone was in a good mood since
the sun was shining and we were able to get out of the confines of our boats. Boat chores done, we headed off to snorkel in
a spot called “The Coral Garden” due to the large number and variety of coral
that are in a small area not far from the Ranger Headquarters.
Warderick Wells - Day 3
We are
beginning our third year afloat. We launched Foreign Affair two years
ago and she's been afloat ever since. It rained almost all day today. However, the temperature was in the 70s here in
the Exumas rather than the 30s as it was on the Chesapeake Bay two years ago. It is surprising how quickly time has passed since we began our journey.
We have been to so many places and seen so much in that very short
time. We have learned a great deal about our
country and ourselves. Along the way, we
have met hundreds of people and made some friends for life. It has been an amazing adventure with more to
come.
Warderick Wells - Day 2
We slept
well knowing we were on a mooring that was in very good condition. The wind continued to be from the east at 15
– 20 with gusts into the mid-20s. It was
a cool night with temperatures in the low-60s.
Shroud Cay to Warderick Wells
Our original
plan was to remain at Shroud Cay one more day and devote our time to snorkeling
the nearby reefs. We were up early for breakfast
and tuned in the 0800 weather report out of Highbourne Cay. When we heard the wind would build and clock
further to the south, we decided to cancel that plan and head to Warderick
Wells where we could have protection during the blow anticipated to begin on
Sunday. There are a limited number of
moorings available at Warderick and more boats will be seeking shelter than
there are moorings. We figured if we
came in a day early and reserved a mooring through the weekend we’d be better
off than remaining at Shroud for another day and discovering there was no room
at Warderick. So, we weighed anchor and
were soon bound for Warderick Wells.
Shroud Cay
We spent a
peaceful night at anchor along with over 20 other boats of which 6 were over 80
feet long. There was a lot of activity
on the water beginning at about 0900.
There were a couple of kite boarders out sailing and two of the mega yachts were deploying float rafts. The usually
dinghy and tender traffic was zooming about.
We joined the melee and headed out to explore Settlement Creek,
Driftwood Beach and Camp Driftwood.
Highbourne Cay to Shroud Cay
We weighed
anchor at 0745 which was near low tide.
We wanted to enter Highbourne Cay Marina at near slack tide so we could
take on fuel and pick up a few provisions.
We entered the marina basin at 0830.
There were two large motor yachts docked on either side of the fuel
dock. The wind was blowing in the
mid-teens even in the protected marina basin.
Two years ago, we would never have attempted to dock the boat under
these conditions. Now, we better know
how to adjust for the wind and realize how these large yachts create wind
shadows when you are very close to them.
We adeptly maneuvered Foreign
Affair onto the dock and had a foot at each end to spare. It helped that the bow of the 100+ foot yacht
in front of us curved enough to let our two bows overlap at the dock.
Highbourne Cay to Allans Cay and back to Highbourne Cay
We ate a
wonderful breakfast of ham and eggs before weighing anchor to travel to Allans
Cay which is just north of Highbourne Cay.
The attraction there is the pink iguanas. They are mostly green; however, the larger,
mature iguanas have a pinkish belly and goiter.
To get to the iguanas, you enter a narrow channel between Allans Cay and
SW Allans Cay and follow the deep blue water around the shoals to a spot
between Allans Cay and Leaf Cay which lies to the east of Allans. We anchored and launched our dinghy. About 30 or so iguanas came out of the
mangroves as we approached the beach on Leaf Cay. Apparently, they know they will soon be
getting a free meal when they hear an outboard motor near the island.
Nassau to Highboune Cay
Foreign Affair cast off as planned. Obe, the dock master, ably organized the
departure. The dock was full of
well-wishers and people ready to help us get underway. Another sloop, Gray Ghost, was departing right after us. She was also headed for Highbourne Cay. The wind was blowing less than 20. We backed our way out of the slip against the wind and waves
into the harbor and were soon bound for Highbourne Cay. The sun was shining; however, there were a great
number of clouds in the sky which meant reading the water for coral heads would
be very difficult.
Nassau Day 12 - Easter Sunday
Easter
Sunday, we returned to Ebenezer Methodist Church to join their welcoming
congregation in celebrating this holy day.
The flower arrangements were many and magnificent. The pastor gave wonderful sermon once again
and we learned why Ebenezer is known as “the singing church.” Six hymns were sung during the communion
service alone. Now, I know why they hand
out cough drops before the service begins.
Nassau Day 11
Our
outing today took us to the National Art Gallery of the Bahamas. The
gallery is located in Villa Doyle which was built in 1860 and served as a great
house for a sisal plantation. It is typical of the homes built by wealthy
planters in the 19th Century.
A major addition was added in the 1920s which provided the owner with a
billiard room and library on the ground floor, as well as, a ballroom on the
upper floor. Verandahs once provided clear
views of the harbor and plantation fields.
Today, the land surrounding Villa Doyle has been built up and the view
of the harbor is obstructed.
Nassau Day 10
We spent the
morning with Frank and Carol reading and listening to the news and discussing
the weather. The forecast wasn’t
encouraging; however, there is a chance Foreign
Affair will be able to return to the Exumas on Tuesday as winds are
supposed to drop below a steady 20+ knots.
Hakuna Matata may be able to
depart for the US on Thursday or Friday.
The wind should have clocked around from Northeast to East which would
make a Gulf Stream crossing possible.
The current plan is for a departure with slack tide in the morning which
would allow for a daylight arrival the next morning at Lucaya for fuel and
chance to walk the dog, Molly, before heading out again for the Fort Pierce
Inlet and final arrival at Vero Beach the following day. Clearing Customs and Immigration can be done
at the Vero Beach Airport.
Nassau Day 9
We did a lot
of walking today. First, we went to the Pirate
Museum where we learned about the many famous pirates that sailed out of Nassau
and the Bahamas during the late 17th and early 18th
Centuries. Nassau or Charles Town as it
was formerly called served as a great haven for pirates and was under pirate
control for nearly 15 years. The city
was settled by the English in 1666. The
Spanish destroyed it in 1684. It was
rebuilt and renamed Nassau by the English in 1685. The Spanish and French occupied the city in
1703. Pirates then took control of the
city after the Spanish and French withdrew their forces. The city remained under pirate rule from late
1703 until 1718 when the English appointed Captain Woodes Rogers as governor of
the Bahamas. He was responsible for
restoring English governance and bringing the pirates under control. Pirates from Nassau raided and plundered as
far north as the English New England Colonies and as far south as the Gulf
Coast of South, Central and North
America.
Nassau Day 8
The winds
continued to howl through the rigging and waves constantly rocked the
boat. The forecast doesn’t look good for
the rest of the week. In fact, it will
get worse before it gets better.
Somewhat surprisingly, we have a new neighbor who came in from the
Exumas.
Nassau Day 7
We walked to
the oldest part of Nassau to revisit a couple of sights we briefly stopped at
during our guided tour of the city. We
went to the Queen’s Staircase and climbed the 66 steps to the top and from
there on to the Water Tower and Fort Fincastle.
The Queen’s Staircase was hewn out of solid limestone rock by slaves
between 1793 and 1794. It provides a
direct route from Fort Fincastle to Nassau.
We took a few more pictures and bought some pineapple and coconut cake
for a snack. “Sexy Mary” was there with
her tour group for the day. We visited
with her for a few minutes before she had to get her group on the way to their
next stop.
Nassau Day 6
It began raining last night as predicted. Winds are now
steadily blowing in the 20s. The water
in harbor is getting very choppy. Foreign Affair is rocking and rolling in
her slip. We have all our fenders out
and added additional dock lines. The well-built
dock itself is swaying a little under the stress as Sophia and Foreign Affair get
waked by boats large enough to be out and about catering to cruise ship
tourists. This blow is forecast to last
at least a week. The marina is
full. Boats have been coming in from the
islands for the past few days seeking shelter.
We will have ample opportunity to see the sights in Nassau.
Nassau Day 5
We went to
Ebenezer Methodist Church to celebrate Palm Sunday. This congregation formed in 1800. We were well received as guests. The minister was from Louisiana and filling
in for a year while the congregation was searching for a permanent
minister. The congregation was active in
many activities during the entire week and the church had a large campus with
several adjacent buildings for Sunday School, Bible Study and an
auditorium. The adult and children’s
choir both sang. The minister gave a
very good sermon on the significance of Palm Sunday and the resurrection of
Lazarus who appeared during the services and was aided in removing his
bindings by members of the congregation. One of the church members gave
us a ride back to the marina after the service.
Nassau Day 4
We took the
#7 bus to the Straw Market which is located not far from the cruise ship
dock. The fare was $1.25. The bus ride was interesting as the route
took us through parts of Nassau usually not seen by tourists. A significant percentage of the population
lives in poverty. Many of the houses are
about the size of a one or two car garage back in the States. Most houses and nearly all businesses have
bars over the windows and doors. Having
to be “buzzed in” to gain access to a business is quite common. Private security guards are present in many
businesses. Yet, it is safe to travel in
most parts of the city’s business and
tourist district during daylight hours.
Police presence near the cruise ship dock is very heavy. Paradise Island which is the main resort area
is across the bay and requires transportation to cross the bridges to get there.
Nassau - Day 3
We were
awaken by the wakes of boats moving around the harbor starting around
0730. We resigned ourselves to the fact
we couldn’t sleep much longer and finally got up for a leisurely breakfast. At 1000 we were in front of the marina
waiting for a cab to take us to Rawson Square where the cruise ships off-load
their passengers for tours of Nassau. We
booked a driving tour of the city and were soon on our way about town with an
entertaining driver/guide who called herself “Sexy Mary”.
Nassau - Day 2
We slept in
as best we could. Boats started moving
about the harbor around 0700 and their wakes sometimes rocked Foreign Affair in her slip. We eventually made our way out of bed into
the salon and had breakfast. Carol and
Frank were still trying to arrange for a doctor’s appointment. Eventually, they settled on heading to Doctors’
Hospital to meet with a neurologist. Carla
and Dwayne went shopping for provisions.
Highbourne Cay to Nassau
We left
Highbourne Cay at 0900 which was near slack tide. The wind was from the south at 10-15 which
was favorable for our run north to Nassau.
Frank slept well and he is feeling up to skippering his own boat with
Carol as crew. Hakuna Matata led the way with Foreign
Affair not far behind. We sailed
most of the first 25 miles and motor-sailed when the winds weren’t keeping us
moving along at 5 knots or better.
Highbourne Cay
The weather
didn’t turn out to be as bad as forecast.
Winds were 5 miles less than anticipated. The sun was shining and the few clouds in the
sky made for a beautiful day. We took a
tour of the island on courtesy bikes provided by the marina. The main road runs along the Atlantic side of
the island and provides access to the resort’s secluded cottages. We discovered the University of Miami has a
research facility for the study of coral reefs on the island. We passed the island’s electrical power plant
and lodgings for the resort’s service staff.
One of the roads we traveled ended at the trash dump. We finally arrived at the far north end of
the island to relax and take advantage of one of the resort’s many private
beaches.
Highbourne Cay Anchorage to Highbourne Cay Marina
We spent a
quiet night at anchor and we were up early enough to catch the 0800 weather
report broadcast from Highbourne Cay.
Today was forecast to be winds from the Southeast at 10-15 miles per
hour which is good. Tomorrow, a small craft warning will go into effect with
winds from the Southeast at greater than 20 miles per hour and seas of 4
feet. We knew we wanted to be in the
Highbourne Cay Marina for the poor weather conditions. We initially thought we’d anchor out one more
night and then move into the marina.
However, the winds built faster than expected. When all the other sailboats in the anchorage
disappeared, we changed our minds and called for a slip. We were lucky as the marina was full shortly
after noon. We were in a good place for
the next two days.
Davis Harbour Marina (Eleuthera Island) to Highbourne Cay (Exuma Islands)
We left
Davis Harbour Marina near high tide bound for Highbourne Cay at the north end
of the Exuma islands. The wind was less
than 5 mph and we motored all the way.
We had our fishing lines out but caught nothing which was a big
disappointment as we were hoping to land some Mahi Mahi which are often caught
in the Exuma Sound.
Rock Sound Harbour to Davis Harbour Marina
We left Rock
Sound Harbour at 1000 sharp which was near high tide. Foreign
Affair led the way following her track from the day before getting into the
anchorage. Hakuna Matata was close behind.
All went well and we were soon in the Davis Channel heading toward the
Exuma Sound. We attempted to sail some
but soon gave up as the winds were very light and we were only making 2 ½ knots
close hauled. We cranked up the engines
and picked up our pace to 5 knots or slightly more. We passed several north-bounders sailing
along nicely in the Davis Channel.
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