Foreign Affair Sailing

Wickford to Newport

We slept in and didn't leave Wickford until 1130. The wind was very light and in our face for the first hour but it eventually picked up some and shifted so we could put out the genoa and motor sail for a while. Eventually, we did shut the engine down and sailed into the wind for about an hour at a speed of 3 knots. Finally, we decided to end the torture and started the engine to complete the last few miles to the Coaster's Harbor Navy Yacht Club mooring ball. We are now members of CHNYC and get to use the ball when we are in Newport which has served as a hub while we have been exploring Narragansett Bay and New England.

We spent the remainder of the day buying provisions at the Navy commissary, doing laundry and taking showers at the marina. We plan to stay in Newport a few days relaxing and exploring the city.

Block Island to Wickford, RI

The 28 mile passage from Block Island to our mooring at the Wickford Yacht Club was made under clear skies. The wind was unfavorable for most of our trip. Waves were 2 to 3 feet and we had some sizable swells. We were able to motor-sail with the genoa for the last hour of our five hour trip. We arrived at Wickford at shortly after 1500 and decided not to go ashore as the wind and waves in the harbor where building. We didn't want to find ourselves bucking wind and waves while getting a wet ride back in the dinghy. We relaxed for the evening - reading books.

Block Island

After breakfast, we took the water taxi in for an early start on our hike across the island. We decided to cut down the center of Block Island and walk along the beach below the Mohegan Bluffs and then head through New Shoreham on the way back to our boat on the Great Salt Pond. However, before we began our journey we had breakfast courtesy of Aldo's Bakery and their delivery boat. Aldo's pastry boat slowly cruises through the anchorage and announces its presence with the crew's sing-song cry of "Andiamo . . . andiamooo!" We got coffee and croissants. Yum, Yum.

Newport to Block Island

Dwayne woke up early, took the dinghy ashore and walked to Stop and Shop to get milk and other provisions. He also picked up some 30W oil to top off our transfer since we were a little short of full after changing the engine and transfer oil yesterday. So, we left Newport with full fuel and water tanks and a stocked food pantry. The sun was shining as we cast off our mooring ball.

Onset to Newport

It was a long, uneventful day of 51 nautical miles with the wind against us at less than 10 knots. As we approached Newport harbor we came across six 12 Metre yachts engaged in a race. We diverted course so as not to interfere but remained close enough to get a good look at these beautiful racing machines. There was quite a distance between the two leading yachts and the rest of the fleet. The two leaders were less than a boat length apart. The tail-enders were also evenly matched and the lead changed among them several times while we watched. I doubt you could see such a spectacle anywhere other then Newport.

Plymouth to Onset

The weather forecast was not looking good - high winds and heavy rains. We were afraid we would be stuck in Plymouth for a couple of days waiting for a good weather window to make our passage through the Cape Cod Canal. Traveling through the canal can become very challenging if not impossible for us due to the strong current and steep waves when the wind opposes the flow of water through the canal. We needed to go with the tide and have winds in our favor to make a good passage. It rained and blew hard all morning in Plymouth; however, the winds gradually died down and by 1400 we decided to take our chances that conditions would allow for us to make it through the canal.

Plymouth

We went into Plymouth to learn more about the Pilgrims and their colony. A replica of the Mayflower was in the harbor. It is unlikely the real Mayflower would have been so close to the shoreline as Plymouth harbor is one of the shallowest we have encountered. You have to carefully follow a narrow, dredged channel to get as close to the shore as the Mayflower II. At low tide Foreign Affair had less than a foot of water under her keel and we draw less than 6 feet compared to the Mayflower's 12 feet. The Pilgrims most likely ferried themselves and their goods ashore on a smaller vessel. The shallow harbor would also benefit the Pilgrims as it might keep pirate ships at bay. We don't realize hundreds of pirates were operating in the waters of the New World at this time.

Boston to Plymouth

We had a beautiful day to travel the 40 miles from Boston to Plymouth. The sun was shining bright and the waters were relatively calm. The winds were very light and in our face for the last half of the trip. As a result, we motor sailed most of the way.

Boston - Tea Party Museum, Old State House, Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market

We started our morning tours with a visit to the Boston Tea Party Museum. This museum was voted the #1 museum in Boston and for once the #1 was indeed the #1. We had a fabulous, fun time posing as Indians and throwing tea into Boston Harbor. As we entered the meeting hall we were given our identity and a feather for our Indian disguise.

Boston - Trinity Church and Boston Public Library

We rode the hop on/hop off tour bus again. We made several stops. Highlights included Trinity Church and the Boston Public Library.

The Trinity Church congregation dates back to 1733. The current church and parish house were constructed after the Great Boston Fire of 1872 destroyed the parish's earlier buildings. The current Trinity Church took 5 years to build (1872 -1877). Henry Hobson Richardson was the architect and the church is considered one of the most important structures as it was the first and finest building in what is known as the Richarsonian Romanesque architectural style.

Boston - Navy Yard and USS Constitution

We bought a two day hop on, hop off bus pass to get a guided overview of the city and allow us to see more than if traveling by foot. Our first stop was the Charlestown Navy Yard which is now a historic district under US Park Service management.

Marblehead to Boston

It was a short 3 hour hop from Marblehead to Boston. We took a Boston Harbor Sailing Club mooring which was located about 100 yards off the New England Aquarium. We were right in the heart of Boston. The club's harbor launch dropped us at Rowes Wharf with its luxury hotels, multi-million dollar condos, high-end retail and award winning restaurants. Its good that many of the rich and famous are wearing shabby clothing. We fit right in when we went ashore.

Salem to Marblehead

We made the very short passage from Salem to Marblehead - 4 miles in less than one hour. We secured a Boston Yacht Club mooring ball. The Boston Yacht Club operates out of it facilities in Marblehead. The clubhouse in Boston no longer exists. This is the sesquicentennial of the founding of the club in 1866. Of the more than 2,000 yachts moored in Marblehead harbor. 400 belong to members of the Boston Yacht Club. Several other yacht clubs call Marblehead home.

Salem - Walking Tour and Peabody Essex Museum

It rained off and on during the night. The winds were really blowing - high teens and gusts in the twenties. The boat danced on its mooring all night. We were rudely awaken at 0600 when the tide, wind and waves conspired to cause Foreign Affair to slam against the mooring ball next to us. We suspect our mooring dragged during the night as we think there was ample clearance when we first arrived and the gap between us and another boat next to us seemed to have increased. We were able to bring in the mooring bridle a couple of feet which then allowed us to swing clear of the ball which was causing us problems. The winds eventually died down and we decided not to request a different mooring for the night.

Gloucester to Salem

We had to take a photo of one of the leading historical landmarks as we left Gloucester. The Tarr and
Wonson Paint Manufactory building has been the subject of art works by numerous artists. The building was constructed in 1874. It sits prominently on the tip of Rocky Neck. The company was best known for developing an innovative copper based paint which deterred fouling and infestation of vessels' hulls. Anti-fouling paint is important to boaters. This building is of interest to us not only for its appearance but also because of its history as a developer and manufacturer of anti-fouling paint. How exciting is that!

Whale Watching

We went whale watching today. We haven't seen any during our travels yet despite traversing along the edges of their feeding grounds. Whales are plentiful in Massachusetts Bay this time of year as they feed heavily on Stellwagen Bank and Jeffreys Ledge in preparation for their migration south in the winter to warmer waters and birthing grounds. They return to the north in the summer months. Whales migrate much like birds. Minke and Humpbacks whales are most commonly seen and the whale watching boats out of Gloucester were finding them about 20 miles off shore. So, we decided to let the experts take us whale watching and we learned much enroute and after arriving on Stillwagen Bank. The marine biologists on board did a fine job of describing the various types of whales and what to expect when we finally saw them up close. It was truly a marvelous experience.

Train to Salem

We decided to take the train to Salem which is a short distance from Gloucester. The round trip ticket was less than $5.00. We got to see the country-side which we would not have from off shore. Our first stop was the Salem Visitor Center where we watched two videos covering the history of Salem. From there we walked to the Salem Pioneer Village 1630 which was built in 1930 to mark the tercentennial of Massachusetts. It is the first living history museum in the US. Several buildings representing those of the early settlers have been constructed in a city park. Guides dressed in attire similar to what was worn by the colonists in 1630 lead visitors through the village structures and grounds while describing life in early Salem. We felt sorry for the reenactors as it was a very hot day and they were dressed in layers of cotton and wool clothing. They did a wonderful job and we learned much today about life in the early settlements of Massachusetts.

Gloucester - Hammond Castle

We took the MBTA bus to Hammond Castle which was built for John Hays Hammond, Jr. just prior to the great Wall Street Crash of 1929. The castle has been featured in the Travel Channel's "Castle Secrets and Legends" and "Ghost Hunters". Of course, the castle is haunted as proven by the cast of "Ghost Hunters". Hammond's wife, Eileen Garret, was a well-known psychic. Reportedly, she and her husband continue to enjoy their unusual home. We left before dark.

Kittery, Maine to Gloucester, Massacuesetts

We left Kittery at 0930 with winds less than 5 mph. The wind finally started to build after we had motored an hour. We finally found an opportunity to sail and by 1100 we had a good breeze abeam. We were really surprised to find ourselves consistently sailing over 6 knots. We reached a top speed of 7.3 knots main and genoa with the current. The winds were the result of a storm front moving in and by late afternoon we could see heavy rain fallling a few miles ahead of us. We furled our sails as the wind shifted to be on our bow. We were very fortunate as we found ourselves on the very edge of the storm and were able to move around it and avoid getting wet. The sun came out shortly after we entered Gloucester harbor which experienced very heavy winds and rain shortly before our arrival. We plan to remain in Gloucester a few days to rest and resupply. We really enjoy this quaint, compact harbor with so much history.

Portland to Kittery, Maine (Portsmouth, NH) - Heading South, Bound for the Bahamas

It was dead quiet when Dwayne woke up just after dawn. The fog was denser than we experienced last night. Visibility was less than 50 feet. Dwayne went back to bed. We didn't drop off our mooring ball until 1000. The fog had lifted enough so we could proceed out of the harbor and hope we would not find it worse on our way to Portsmouth. We had to skirt a few fog banks on the way. It took several hours for the fog to lift. There was no wind. We motored all the way. We were on the lookout for whales but saw none. We did see a large pod of dolphins. No seals were sighted.

As we entered Portsmouth harbor, we turned north and took the Back Channel between Kittery Point and Seavey's Island to take a mooring ball at the Kittery Point Yacht Yard. It was a very convenient location and out of the way of traffic moving into Portsmouth harbor.

Portland

It rained all morning and most of the afternoon. We stayed on the boat reading and doing chores until around 1500 when we took the Centerboard Yacht Club launch over to "Old Town" Portland. The waterfront and downtown area have been gentrified. The waterfront is up-scale condos and restaurants. The main street is the shopping district with more restaurants and boutiques. There are a few blocks of old buildings and cobblestone streets which give you some idea of what the port might have looked like in the past century. One day in Portland was enough for us.

York To Portland

We departed York at 0730 on the ebb tide. We traveled through the Gulf of Maine which is a feeding ground for whales. Dwayne saw what appeared to be a whale a great distance away but we did not head in that direction to investigate further. We did come across a large pod of about 30 dolphins a short while later several miles off Cape Porpoise. They crossed our bow and stern moving at a fast pace. We suspect they were feeding on fish. We later saw a couple of harbor seals. They would pop their heads up to check us out and didn't seem to care about our passing. We turned back to try to get a picture of one. However, he apparently was a bit shy. He dove and disappeared once he realized we were coming back in his direction. They are cute creatures with big shiny, black eyes.

Gloucester to York

We left Gloucester at 0730 with calm seas and no wind. The SSV Oliver Hazard Perry, was at anchor as we left the harbor. This ship out of Newport, Rhode Island is the largest civilian sailing school vessel in the United States. She is named after the naval hero from Rhode Island, Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, who defeated the British fleet in the Battle of Lake Erie during the War of 1812. There are numerous schooners sailing the East Coast; however, it is very rare to see a fully rigged, sailing ship. This was a pleasant and unexpected surprise for us as we departed Gloucester.

Gloucester Sunday

We slept in and had a big breakfast breakfast on the boat which resulted in our getting a late start on the day. We took the water taxi ashore and toured the Rocky Neck artist colony. There are dozens of artist galleries in Gloucester most of which are located on Rocky Neck. Many of the artists' works are of New England landscapes or a maritime motif. The cars of gallery visitors lined the street curbs and filled the parking lots near the Rocky Neck galleries and restaurants. We joined the hundreds of people enjoying a relaxing, sunny day on this small piece of land jutting out into the harbor.

Gloucester - Saturday

We had a quiet night on our mooring in Gloucester's inner harbor. We called for the harbor launch and took it to Jacob's Landing to begin our exploration of downtown Gloucester. Our first stop was the Cape Ann Museum which has a wide range of exhibits covering local and maritime history, culture and art. The museum director gave us a ride to the White-Ellery House which was built in 1710 and is now a museum holding. We were fortunate in that the house is usually not open to the public but a few times a year and the day we arrived there were several experts on old homes and their restoration. We had a great tour of the home with experts explaining features of this house which makes it a particularly valuable historical structure. We could not have asked for a better opportunity to learn about the early settlers and the buildings they constructed.

Onset - Cape Cod Canal to Gloucester

We slipped off our mooring at 0645 to enter the Cape Cod Canal with a favorable tide. The current in the canal can flow as much as 5 knots which can either give your a big boost if you go with the flow or slow your progress to a crawl if you buck the tide. We made the entire passage at the maximum legal speed limit of 10 miles per hour.

New Bedford to Onset

We had a short and uneventful run of 25 miles today from New Bedford to Onset which put us into a great position to enter the Cape Cod Canal tomorrow. We were able to grab a mooring ball belonging to the Massachusetts Maritime Academy and enjoy a peaceful evening before getting up early to catch the favorable tide through the canal.

Newport, RI to New Bedford, MA

Our run from Newport to New Bedford was short and easy. Two imposing engineering projects greet you at the entrance to New Bedford harbor. The most recently constructed of the two is the New Bedford Hurricane Barrier which is an almost 2 mile long rip-rap barrier with hydraulic gates providing access to the harbor. Constructed in 1958, it is the largest stone structure on the US East Coast. The next government engineering project clearly evident is Fort Rodman located on Clark's Point. A fort has stood on Clark's Point since the American Civil War. Fort Rodman was an active coastal defense facility until it was deactivated in 1946 shortly after the end of World War II.

A Day in Newport

Stonington, CT to Newport, RI

We spent a very rolly night despite the fact the winds were low in the evening. The breakwater did little to dampen the effect of the ocean swells We felt like we were experiencing a Nor'easter in St. Augustine. We haven't been rocked so badly in months. We agreed we would pass on anchoring in Stonington harbor again in the future.