Chinese National Museum and Peking Duck
Our first full day in
Beijing was dedicated to seeing the National Museum on Tienanmen Square, with a
short stop at Mao’s mausoleum.
We took the subway,
which was easy enough from our hutong hostel. A #5 line stop was just around
the corner which allowed us to transfer to the #1 line to Tienanmen West. The
subway is easy to navigate. Maps and ticket machines operate with an English
language option. Once you figure out your stop you just use the ticket
machine’s touch screen to buy your tickets. Our ride cost 3 yuan, or about 45
US cents.
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| Beijing Subway - Clean, Modern, Efficient and Cheap |
When we got off we
emerged from the underground and looked at a posted area map, and started on
our way. Problem was, it was the wrong way. After walking awhile amidst
government buildings and hotels, we realized we may have erred, and finally
asked. We were pointed in the right direction, and off we went. We were way off
course.
To enter Tienanmen Square you go through a security screening like at an airport. We were in line
with the locals when a slew of Americans came by and we decided to fall in with
them to just pass through. Unfortunately, we were found out. The good news is
that a bunch of the locals followed us, many who were in front of us in the
general line…so when we went back in line, we gained significant ground!
When we emerged from security we discovered
that Mao’s tomb was closed. So we just continued to the museum. After some
misdirection, we got into the line for people using passports for
identification to get a ticket. Admission was free, apparently a gift to
foreign visitors. Then we stood in another security line. When Brian reached
the security check, he was scanned with a wand. Apparently he was given the
nickname “Big Panda” by the security guys. It was in good fun, and eventually
we all passed through.
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| Chinese National Museum |
The museum is China’s Smithsonian and it is all
in one huge complex. We began downstairs in the ancient China section which
began with the Peking man skull and cave living. Eventually we moved on to look
at other things – from jade and furniture to the 100th Anniversary of the Russian Revolution, Stalin-era
friendship with Mao, and even one of Lenin’s suits.
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| Jade Burial Shroud Fastened with Gold Threads - Western Han Dynasty (2002 BC - 8 AD) |
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| Saneai-glazed Pottery - Musicians on Camelback (723 AD) - Unearthed at Xian |
There was an extensive exhibit of jade seals which were very important to Chinese rulers as a means of proving legitimacy. He who held the seal was considered the ruler much like those who wore the crown in European kingdoms were recognized as sovereign. Seals were used by Chinese emperors when they issued imperial edicts or transmitted important messages from the emperor.
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| Jade Imperial Seal - Quing Dynasty (1644 - 1911) |
One fascinating exhibit was of gifts given
over the years by visiting foreign heads of state. The set of porcelain swans
given by President Nixon to Mao in 1972 were given prominent display.
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| Gift to China from the USA - President Richard Nixon 1972 |
After spending most of the day at the museum,
we went to dinner at a place recommended by the hostel – Da wan Ju Restaurant. Brian
was on the hunt for Peking duck, and this was the place in the neighborhood to
get it.
The Da wan Ju was upstairs from the entry lobby.
One passed more pictures of food and signs promoting the Chinese (lunar) New
Year’s deals. At the head of the steps was a small podium manned by a woman
with a ticket dispenser. We asked for a table for four and we got a ticket,
like at a bakery, and took a seat. Hardly settled, we were called and escorted
to a table in the corner of the restaurant. The place was very different from
most we’d patronized. This was well-lit and manned by uniformed staff. We were
seated and provided menus that were about the size of Life magazine and as
thick as a novel.
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| Da wan ju Restaurant |
We were there for the
duck, and there one was, in full color, on the menu. We quickly ordered, and
had a few hors d’ oevres to begin the process. Peking duck is not just food on
a plate; there is ritual involved, with the chef making his cuts to render that
duck into small, thinly-sliced morsels to fill the thin tortilla-like pancakes
used to combine duck, vegetable/fruit fillings and sauce for delivery to one’s
mouth. Finally, the duck arrived, and our waitress offered one delicious bit of
advice – try the skin with sugar. We did…it was delicious! Other “fillings”
included thinly sliced scallions, cucumber, cranberry, sugar, hoisin and plum
sauces. We ate to our comfortable fill. For three, the cost was 209 yuan…about
$30 total (less than $8 each). Back home, that’s chop suey money.
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| Brian Savoring His Peking Duck |
We shivered as we
walked back in the cold, damp air to the Happy Dragon Courtyard (our hutong). We were tired and our stomachs comfortably
full. It didn’t take long to fall asleep
under our down comforters.
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