Foreign Affair Sailing

Duck Island to Stonington

We departed Duck Island at 1030 after we moved the outboard motor from the dinghy to the motor mount inside the cockpit. The weather forecast was for winds in the teens and waves up to 4 feet. We didn't want the outboard on the dinghy in seas above 4 feet for an extended period of time because it places too much stress on the davits. Also, we will only be anchoring out once more before we start taking moorings for the rest of our trip to Portland and back. From Stonington onward we will be in the Atlantic rather than the protected waters of Long Island Sound. We will be able to use the harbor water taxi to get to shore from the moorings. So, we won't need the outboard mounted on the dinghy.

Huntington Harbor to Duck Island

We finally began our journey north making for Duck Island which lies at the mouth of the Housatonic River. We covered the 50 miles in 8 hours. Motored all the way as the wind was once again in our face.

Mamaroneck to Huntington Harbor - Our New Sails

Port Washington to Mamaroneck

On July 27, we crossed over from Port Washington to Mamaroneck to re-provision, pick up our mail, do the laundry and a few other tasks. The Sound was filled with kids taking sailing lessons as we approached Mamaroneck. Little Opti prams were everywhere and more numerous than the birds. The young sailors were being coached and looked after by adults in small powerboats. Teens taking lessons were sailing sloop rigged, centerboard boats like the 420. Some were getting experience with spinnakers. It still amazes us to see kids as young as 6 or so sailing such small craft a mile or more off shore and showing no concern or lack of confidence.

Port Jefferson to Port Washington

Three Mile Harbor to Port Jefferson

Three Mile Harbor - Weather Layover July 22 East Hampton July 23

The winds were predicted to be very high. So, we remained anchored in Three Mile Harbor to ride out the weather. Six other sailboats and two power boats had the same idea. We all remained in place throughout the day and night. No one dragged anchor. The holding here is excellent.

We stayed one extra day waiting for the waves on the Sound to lessen in height. Knowing we had a good set to the anchor, we took the dinghy to the town dock and walked into East Hampton to visit the Mulford Farm and Hook Windmill. Once again, Mulford Farm was closed. This time, it was due to a charity antique sale on the farm grounds. We walked back toward Old Hook Mill and stopped at the Citarella Gourmet Market for a deli lunch. After lunch, we walked over to the Old Hook Mill which was open for tours.

Old Hook Mill was built in 1806 and operated until 1908. It is almost completely made from wood to include the cogs, gears and other moving parts. The mill is one of eleven 18th and early 19th Century wind-powered gristmills still in existence on Long Island. The mill was built by Nathaniel Dominy V who was a prominent East Hampton craftsman. Two other mills built by him still stand today. The Old Hook Mill is the one of the most complete windmills open for tours.

Cutchogue Harbor to Three Mile Harbor

Our original plan for the day was to make a short hop from Cutchogue Harbor over to Shelter Island Sound and anchor at Southold early in the afternoon so we could go ashore and visit one or more of the many vineyards and wineries which are found on Long Island's northern fork. The area has been called the Napa Valley of New York.

As we entered Cutchogue Harbor, we encountered a large fleet of sailboats competing in a regatta. We reduced our speed and kept at a safe distance eventually joining some of the spectator boats to watch for a while. We were told it was a regatta with sailors from various high schools competing in One Design 420 sloops and another group was competing in Lasers. It was fun to watch as the wind was beginning to pick up and some of the kids were finding jibing quite challenging. Eventually, we departed to find a good spot to anchor with hopes of going ashore.

Three Miles Harbor to Cutchogue Harbor

On our way out of Three Mile Harbor, we stopped for fuel and a pump-out. While getting fuel, Dwayne noticed some divers cleaning hulls in the marina. He got their attention and talked them into putting a new anode on our driveshaft. We were wanting to get this done and since they were already on site, it only cost us $45 to get them to do it. Sometimes things come together in good ways.

East Hampton July 18 and 19

The winds were howling Monday. So, we stayed aboard and worked on Foreign Affair's "to do list". Carla re-caulked the galley sink and cleaned the cockpit. She spent the rest of the day reading and napping.

Dwayne worked on the blog and planning the next few days trip back to Port Washington and Mamaroneck. He also read and took a nap.

Tuesday was bright and sunny. We knew the anchor was well set. So, we went into East Hampton to see the sights. We passed by the Hook Windmill which was open and planned to see it on the way back to the boat. We discovered Mulford Farm was closed and would not be open again until the weekend.

We were able to visit "Home Sweet Home" which was next door. The museum is a tribute to John Howard Payne who wrote the song, "Home Sweet Home" in 1822. Gustav Buek and his wife bought the home in 1907 and filled it with items associated with John Howard Payne and furnished the home with 18th and 19th Century antiques. Our docent was very well-informed and we had a private tour.

Sag Harbor to Three Mile Harbor

A Big Cat - Three Men at the Stern Preparing to Launch a Tender

After stowing our provisions and hoisting the dinghy, we weighed anchor and headed to Three Mile Harbor for the evening. It was a short 6 miles which was nice. Three Mile Harbor is a scenic, lake like harbor with a narrow passage to the Sound. It is well protected by trees all around and the bottom is firm mud which makes for great holding for the anchor. About 30 other boats are either on mooring balls or anchored in this wonderful spot we were advised to visit by several other cruisers.

Lake Montauk to Sag Harbor

It was a bright, sunny day for our circumnavigation of Gardiners Island enroute to Sag Harbor. We were able to sail some despite the winds being light and not always in our favor. Gardiners Island has 27 miles of shoreline and covers 3,300 acres (6 miles long and 3 miles wide). It is the oldest family estate in the United States. King Charles I granted the island to Lion Gardner in 1639 and it became the first English settlement in what is now New York State. It is the only real estate in the United States still held by a royal grant from the English crown. The island is privately owned by descendants of Lion Gardiner, Lord of the Manor. Only family members and their guests are allowed on the island. Private property - No Trespassing.

One of the guests on Gardiners Island was the pirate/privateer Captain William Kidd. He came to Gardiners to bury some treasure prior to his appearing in English courts in Boston where he hoped he could clear himself of all charges against him. The treasure with the exception of a large diamond retained by Lord Gardiner was sent to Boston as evidence in the trial. Captain Kidd was convicted, sent to London and hung.

Mystic, CT to Lake Montauk, NY

We left Mystic Seaport in time to make the 1040 opening of the Mystic Highway Drawbridge. We had a very busy morning before our departure. We were up by 0630 and had a quick breakfast. Dwayne drove the car to a storage facility and walked the 4 miles back to the boat. It would have been a much shorter walk; however, the storage lot was on the opposite side of the Mystic River as Foreign Affair. As a result, Dwayne had to walk a mile on each bank to cross the river at the drawbridge. This added two miles to the total trip. It was a scenic walk back from the car and mostly shaded. So, it wasn't that much of an ordeal. It was downhill to the river and flat along the shore.

Carla spent the morning doing the last of the laundry, filling water tanks and generally preparing the boat for movement. She did a fine job of backing out of our slip and getting us headed downstream. We got through both the Mystic drawbridge and Amtrak swing bridge without delay. We refueled and pumped out at the Brewer's Marina just downstream from the swing bridge. We cleared the harbor by 1130 and were on our way across the Sound to Lake Montauk.

Sailing on the Mystic River and Goodbye to Ann and the Boys

We kept busy up to the end of the stay for Ann and her boys. Dwayne took the boys sailing in a classic wooden boat. It was a new experience for all aboard. It was a boomless, sprit rigged cat. This meant the boys would not get hit in the head with a boom if they failed to duck. It also meant, Dwayne had to learn how to control this rig which was an interesting experience. The boys had fun but liked sailing on Foreign Affair better since you didn't have to duck "ropes" and move around in the cockpit so much every time the boat changed direction. On Foreign Affair they just sat back and relaxed.

USS Nautilus and the Submarine Force Museum

We drove over to Groton to tour the USS Nautilus (SSN571) and Submarine Force Museum. Needless to say, the boys were excited. Well, we all were. The Navy has done a wonderful job preserving this historic vessel and telling the story of the US Navy's submarine service.

The USS Nautilus was launched in 1954. She holds several claims to being "the first". She was the world's first nuclear submarine, shattered all submerged speed and distance records, and was the first ship to cross the North Pole. She was decommissioned in 1980 and became the centerpiece of the US Navy Submarine Force Museum in 1986.

Essex Steam Train and River Boat with Lunch at the Griswold Inn

We drove over to Essex to ride the steam train and head up the Connecticut River on the river boat. The steam train consisted of an 2-8-2 Mikado type engine and eight Pullman cars from the 1920s. We rode coach class and found it quite comfortable for our journey to the river boat. The train ran along the southern shoreline of the Connecticut River on tracks once belonging to the Connecticut Valley Railroad Line which began operations in 1871. It eventually became part of the New Haven Railroad and the Connecticut River tracks became idle in 1968. The Essex steam train began operation as the Valley Railroad in 1971 after refurbishing the abandoned railroad tracks.

Mystic Aquarium

We spent the day at the Mystic Aquarium. It is definitely one of the finest aquariums in the country. The highlight of our visit was seeing the Baluga whales and being able to touch the sting rays in the ray pool. One of the most interesting exhibits was the jelly fish/sea nettle collection. The range in color and size of these creatures is fascinating. The largest jelly fish can grow to be over 200 feet long. We see quite a few small jelly fish in the Chesapeake Bay in the summer. We don't see a many on the Sound. Hundreds of varieties of fish were on display. It was a great learning experience for all of us.

Navigator and Dinghy Ride

Highlights of our day at Mystic Seaport Museum were visiting more of the 19th Century Mystic Village stores and workshops. Some had hands on activities in which the boys were able to participate. A favorite for all of us was the Nautical Instrument Shop which not only provided an education on the tools used by mariners to navigate their way around the world but also was the starting point for the Navigation Quest which was a geocaching activity on the museum grounds. It involved using a compass, telescope, map and GPS device. We had to follow a series of clues and directions to locate chests containing cards which once all collected were turned in at the Nautical Instrument Shop and redeemed for a prize - a compass. The boys were really excited each time they located one of the chests which they had to open with a special key made by the blacksmith/shipsmith. We all enjoyed this fun activity which was a good learning experience.

Sailing to Fisher Island, Mystic Pizza and Ice Cream

We woke to discover a lot of commotion on the shore by the Mystic Boathouse. Hundreds of swimmers were preparing for an annual 1500 meter swim in the harbor. Additionally, two training sloops from the British Royal Navy had arrived and it appeared as if the British sailors and marines were also participating in the swimming. The Mystic fireboat arrived just before the start and began to fire its water cannon. Needless to say, the boys were impressed by it all. It was a challenge to get them to come below for breakfast.

Whaling and Rowing on the Mystic

Carla's daughter and grandchildren were excited when they woke up. They wanted to get out and see all that the Mystic Seaport Museum had to offer. Breakfast was simple and quick - cereal.

We decided to head off the the whaling ship, Charles W. Morgan. She is the jewel of the museum. The Morgan is the last wooden, sailing whaler in the world. She was built in 1841 and hunted whales for over 80 years. Five years were spent to bring her up to prime condition for a tour of the US East Coast in 2014. She is a National Historic Landmark and visited by thousands of people each year. We spent the remainder of the morning in viewing the exhibits dedicated to the American whaling industry. We all learned much about the men and ships who sailed to all corners of the Earth seeking to fill their ships with whale oil and baleen which was used to manufacture items which needed flexibility or springiness such as umbrellas, corsets, buggy whips, etc.

Ann and the Boys Arrive

Carla's daughter, Ann arrived with her children, Samual and William. They will be with us for a week at the Mystic Seaport Museum. Ann and the kids were amazed at the size and extent of the museum. The boys were able to run around and climb the huge anchors which are scattered throughout the museum grounds. They were really excited when they first saw Foreign Affair and learned they would be sleeping aboard for the entire stay.

We took a stroll through the museum grounds after stowing the luggage and having a quick snack. Needless to say, the boys can hardly wait until tomorrow when they can board the ships and boats in the harbor and get involved in the activities of the day.

Thames River to Mystic Seaport Museum

It was a beautiful day for us to make our move to Mystic. The Coast Guard Academy rowing teams were out for an early morning practice session. The stillness of the morning was disrupted by the sound of the coach's voice which was amplified by a bullhorn. We awoke to the coach's litany of the names of the rowing team members as she shouted instructions and encouragement to the women.

After breakfast, we decided to take Foreign Affair as far up the Thames as we could before heading out to the Sound. The Thames is nothing like the 400 plus mile long Connecticut River. The Thames is a deep but short river and there is much more development along its entire length.

The Groton Monument which towers above Groton is a 135 foot tall granite obelisk erected between 1826 and 1830 lists the names of all the defenders of Fort Griswold who died at the Battle of Groton Heights on September 6, 1781. This battle was the largest to take place in Connecticut during the American Revolution. Fort Griswold guarded the town of Groton and the Thames River. The British under the leadership of General Benedict Arnold, who was a traitor to the revolutionary cause, captured the fort after heavy fighting. A large number of American soldiers were killed during and after the battle. As a result, the battle was sometimes remembered at the Groton Massacre.

Connecticut River to Thames River (US Coast Guard Academy)

Connecticut River

Mystic to Essex (Nott Island)

Essex to Mystic

We left Nott Island heading downstream on the Connecticut River back to the Sound bound for the Mystic Seaport Museum which will be our home port while Carla's daughter, Ann and her two boys join us for a week's vacation.


Entering the Mystic River is truly picturesque as many of the homes were either built in the 19th Century or constructed in styles reflecting that period. The Morgan Point Light stands watch over the mouth of the Mystic and Mouse Island. The lighthouse is quite substantial and serves as the focal point for boats entering the river's twisting channel. Mouse Island is nothing more than a barren rock slightly larger than a football field. However, several small, quaint houses lie perched upon this solid granite out cropping. There was so much to take in and admire upon first entering the harbor that we briefly found ourselves taking Mouse Island on our starboard rather than port side. We would have soon gone aground or worse yet holed the boat had we not quickly realized our mistake and reversed course until we got back into the main channel.

Milford to Essex

We slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. The weather forecast was for possible showers in the afternoon. It was cool and nearly windless. We weighed anchor at 0945 and motored all the way to the Connecticut River heading upstream as far as Nott Island across from Essex to anchor.

Elegant homes line the banks of the lower Connecticut River. There was quite a bit of boat traffic as we entered the breakwater at the river's mouth. Katherine Hepburn's home was along the shoreline not far from the Lynde Point Light. The small community of Fenwick is still a small, exclusive community.