River Kwai to Ayutthaya


We slept better our second night in the jungle.  We were tired and getting used to the sounds of the jungle creatures.  During our stay, it rained on and off at times quite heavily.  The hotel had umbrellas available and staff would bring them out to guests if they saw them trapped under one of the many covered sitting areas on the hotel grounds.  We benefited from this on our first night when there was a downpour just as a Thai traditional music and dance performance was ending.  The rains never lasted long during our stay.  Early low lying clouds hung in the cliffs and above the jungle until the sun burned them off.  It was always hot and humid.  Temperatures in the 90s with 110% humidity (and it is winter here).  Our guide tells us it gets much worse during the monsoon and summer seasons.


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Hellfire Pass and Death Railway Tour


The jungle never sleeps.  Strange animal noises woke us up periodically during the night.  Nocturnal animal sounds receded as the sun began to rise but were replaced by the sounds of other creatures waking.  Like the early risers, we were at breakfast shortly after the sun began to shine.  The highlights of the day were a visit to Hellfire Pass and a ride on the Death Railway.  Hellfire Pass is a deep railroad cut through solid rock.  It gets its name because work on the cut continued without stop around the clock.  Torches and bonfires were used for lighting while the emaciated men hammered away at the rock.  As a result, the work-site was in appearance and reality a scene from Hell.  Many men died in this pass during its construction.   The Australian and Thai governments maintain a memorial in Hellfire Pass and the Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum commemorates the sacrifices of the ANZAC POWs who worked on the railroad's construction.  It was very moving and clearly demonstrated why Hellfire Pass is so named.  The railway constructed during the war was called the Death Railway since as many as 100,000 or even more men died during its construction.  Parts of the railway are still in use.  We were able to ride a portion of the route built during the war.



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Bangkok to Wang Krachae in Kanchanaburi Province


The journey from Bangkok to our hotel on the River Kwai took us about 8 hours even though we only drove about 125 kilometers (75 miles).  This was because we made a couple of extended stops along the way and made the final leg of our trip by long-tail boat up the River Kwai.  Our first stop was at the Damnoen Saduak floating market.  From there, we stopped at the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre Museum in Kanchanaburi City which told the story of the construction of the railway using prisoners of war and conscripted labor from several Asian countries during World War II.  Finally, our bus dropped us off at Phutakien Pier where we boarded long-tail boats for a twenty minute ride up-stream to our hotel in the jungle.

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Bangkok - Lak Mueang, Grand Palace, Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Siam Niramit


We began our day with a tour of the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.  On the way to the Grand Palace we passed Lak Mueang where the city pillars are located in a shrine which houses the city spirit deity.  Bangkok's Lak Mueang is near the Grand Palace.



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Bangkok City Market, Wat Pho and Night Market


We joined out Gate 1 Tour group and began the day with a visit to the city market followed by a stop at Wat Pho to see the Reclining Buddha.  We ended the day with shopping at the night market.  Our initial impression of Bangkok was that it is the cleanest city we have come across so far in our travels.  Also, the traffic was less heavy with wider roads, more cars and much fewer motor bikes on the roads.  The people were very friendly and the vendors were docile compared to India and Vietnam.


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New Delhi to Bangkok


We left our hotel in New Delhi just before mid-night to catch our 0330 flight on Thai Air to Bangkok.  Yes, a 3:30 a.m. departure would get us to Bangkok at 9 a.m.  We were surprised to see how busy the airport was when we arrived.  We were off to the airport lounge as soon as we checked our bags.  The lounge was the most crowded one we ever encountered.  Apparently, many business travelers fly these very early morning flights.  We couldn't find four lounge chairs together.  Surprisingly, the courtesy buffet still had hot food available.  Dwayne had a small plate of lasagne and red wine.  Carla went light on the food but did have a beer.  No chance to sleep in the lounge while waiting for our flight as it was too busy.  So, we passed our time reading.  Our departure was on schedule.  We flew in a Boeing 787.  A hot meal was served shortly after take-off.  Then it was time to doze off and catch what sleep we could. 


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Agra to New Delhhi


We departed Agra early in the morning for our return to New Delhi where we will catch our flight to Bangkok.  The distance was a little over 200 kilometers (125 miles).  The bus took the best highway we saw in India.  It was a concrete, limited access toll road three lanes wide in either direction.  We made one stop along the way for a quick run to the toilet and to buy some snacks to hold us over until dinner.  The trip took about 5 hours.  Along the way, we were able to observe farmers working in their fields.  Potatoes and millet were being harvested.  Other crops we could identify were wheat, mustard and a variety of vegetables.  In some fields we noticed soil had been removed creating recessed squares where crops were growing.  We learned this was the result of soil being excavated and used to make bricks.  Occasionally, brick kilns could be seen scattered among the fields.


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Agra



We began our day in Agra with a tour of the Taj Mahal. Pictures do not do it justice. It is much larger than one would expect and the craftsmanship required to build this monument is beyond what can be found in the world today. Extensive efforts are being made to preserve the Taj Mahal from the effects of pollution and security is very tight. We were fortunate in that several high ranking representatives were scheduled to be in India later in the week. As a result, we were able to view it at its best. The water fountains were operating and the grounds were being groomed. The weather was also perfect.






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Jaipur to Agra


We got to sleep in today.  We boarded the bus at 1030.  The trip from Jaipur to Agra is about 240 kilometers (150 miles).  We made a couple of brief stops along the way and arrived in Agra in the late afternoon.  To travel by Indian public transport bus from Jaipur to Agra will take over 14 hours based on their schedule and many stops along the way.  Also, the public bus is very crowded and not air-conditioned.  We are riding in a Mercedes built, luxury touring bus that even has a toilet.  The drivers here are amazing in what they can do driving these buses.  Watching traffic is half the fun.


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Jaipur


We departed the hotel at 0730 to be among the first visitors to the Amber Fort, also known as the Amber Palace.  It was built on the remains of earlier fortifications dating back over 1,000 years.  Several older forts are located within a short distance of the Amber Fort.  The Jaigarh Fort sits atop a hill overlooking the Amber Fort and the two are connected by tunnels and trenches to allow a covered retreat from the Amber Fort to the Jaigarh Fort if necessary.  The forts are immense.  The Jaigarh Fort is over 3 kilometers long and 1 kilometer wide.  Walls run out from the fort along ridge lines and surround much of the hills and valleys.  Inside the walls of the Amber Fort is the oldest surviving palace in India, Kadimi Mahal.  The current Amer Palace dates back to the 16th Century.  Numerous courtyards are found within the fort as a result of continued expansion over the centuries.  Most of the material used in the construction was brick and sandstone.  The forts are truly imposing as they rise from the river's bank to the top of the small mountains lining the river valley.


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New Delhi to Jaipur



Today we departed New Delhi and drove to Jaipur – about 275 kilometers. We took a national highway which was very good as it was divided and had three lanes headed each direction. Traffic was light as it was a Sunday. We made a short stop to view a minaret which was just shy of 1,000 years old and use the restroom. About an hour and a half later we stopped again for lunch served outdoors. We finally arrived in Jaipur around 4:30 to check into our hotel. By 5:00 we were headed to the bazaar for an hour of shopping. The bazaar was rather tame and sterile compared to those we visited in other countries. Carla and Janet each bought a pair of shoes. We ended the day with a communal Gate 1 tour group dinner at our hotel. The area around Jaipur reminds us of New Mexico with its semi-arid valleys and low mountains.



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New Delhi Day 3 - Old and New Delhi, Jama Masjid Mosque, Gandhi Smriti, SikhTemple


We were on the bus at 8 o'clock heading to Old Delhi to visit the Jama Masjid, India's largest Muslim mosque built between 1644 and 1656 by order of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan who also is responsible for the construction of the Red Fort in Delhi and the Taj Mahal.  Red sandstone and white marble are hallmarks of this massive mosque.  The tallest minarets are 135 feet tall.  The courtyard can hold 25,000 worshipers.



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New Delhi Day 2 - Tuk Tuk Tour


We slept in but got up in time for breakfast at the hotel.  The omelette was more like a crepe than an thick omelette.  But it still tasted like eggs.  There was no coffee readily available.  So, we drank milk tea - chai.  Some naan to go with the omelette and we were done for breakfast.  Carla tried something that looked a bit like tapioca and said it tasted pretty good.  Hopefully, tomorrow's breakfast will be better at the hotel we move to when we join the Gate 1 tour group.  We checked out just before noon and took a taxi to our Gate 1 hotel, The Park.  It is in an up-scale neighborhood and security was present at the driveway gate, the door and the lobby.  Our bags were scanned just like at the airport and we walked through the metal detectors as well.  Once inside the lobby, it was like any other nicer hotel.  Check in was quick and easy.  Our bags appeared shortly after we entered our room which was a bit better than what we left behind at the Aman Continental.  Within an hour of our arrival, we were off on our way to see more of New Delhi.  The day's adventure was beginning.


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New Delhi - Hotel Aman Continental Area Walk About


We woke up later than ever and headed down for breakfast only to discover the dining room closed just before our arrival.  The time was about 1035.  So, we headed back to our room to call room service.  Our breakfast order arrived soon thereafter.  When we adjusted our time settings from Hanoi to New Delhi, we discovered there was an hour and a half difference in the time zones.  1030 in New Delhi was noon in Hanoi.  That means we didn't get to bed until about 2:30 a.m. Delhi time.  So, we got 8 hours of sleep.  Again, too many time zones.  More confusing, who ever heard of a half hour change in time zones?  We soon discovered India is not like anything we have yet experienced.


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Hanoi to New Delhi


We left our hotel at 0815 and arrived in plenty of time to check in for our Malindo Airlines flight to New Delhi.  We were concerned about long lines at security due to the Tet (New Year) holiday; however, it appeared as though there were few people leaving the country as the international terminal did not seem super busy.  The television stations were showing long lines at the domestic terminal just as we experience in the States just before Thanksgiving and Christmas.  Our departure was delayed by more than an hour as the plane we were flying on had not arrived on time.  We were a bit concerned we would miss our connecting flight in Kuala Lumpur due to our late departure.  Upon arriving at Kuala, we were told to hurry to Terminal H so we'd make our connection to New Delhi.  We speed walked to the train station to board the shuttle from Terminal C where we landed to Terminal.H.  The shuttle first took us to Terminal A then reversed course before eventually arriving at Terminal H.  Once again, we speed walked to get to our gate.  There, we discovered our flight was again delayed.  We sat for about a half hour before boarding.  The plane took off over two hours after it was scheduled.  We landed in New Delhi almost 3 hours later than planned.  It was about midnight local time.


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Hanoi - Walk About and Vietnamese National Museum


For our final full day in Hanoi, we decided to relax and slow down the pace.  Dwayne went down for breakfast at 8:30.  Carla decided to stay in bed and asked Dwayne to bring her something when he came back.  After breakfast, we walked down to the Vietnamese National Museum and discovered it was closed for lunch.  To pass the time, we went for lunch ourselves.  On the way, we bought some pop-up cards for the grand-kids and mailed them at the nearby post office.  We walked down to Hoan Kiem Lake and ate at Pepper Lunch which is a chain of Japanese restaurants.  They were out of the first three items we selected from the menu.  We ended up with soup, chicken, salmon, rice and steamed lettuce with cola to drink.  The food arrived at the table piping hot.  They were out of ice cream.  So, we crossed the street and got some at McDonald's.  We finished out the afternoon at the museum and returned to our hotel where we drank beer on the hotel's rooftop lounge.  Dinner was at Pizza Hut.  Tomorrow, it is off to India.  We are flying Malindo Air.  Hope the plane stays in the air.


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Ha Noi City Tour


Today we joined a small group for a city tour of Hanoi.  Among our stops were the Buddhist Tran Quoc and Chua Mot Cot Pagodas, Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum and residences in Hanoi, Temple of Literature, Women's Museum, Hanoi Hilton Prison and another lacquer factory.  We had lunch at a small restaurant on a narrow side street before taking in a performance at the Water Puppet Theater.  We finished our tour with a cyclo ride back to our hotel. We were all very tired.  Dwayne took a nap before dinner.  Around 7 p.m. we left the hotel looking for a beer at a place Brian read about and wanted to check out.  We never found the place and returned to our hotel for dinner.  We plan to sleep in tomorrow and decide what we will do for the day at breakfast.


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Ha Long Bay and Ha Noi


Today, we enjoyed a 5 hour cruise excursion on Ha Long Bay which included a stop at Hang Sun Sot (Cave of Surprises).  Following the tour, we had an almost 3 hour drive to Hanoi.  We checked into the May De Ville Hotel for the remainder of our stay.  It is by far the best accommodations we have had in Vietnam.  We were on our own in Hanoi.  So, we headed to the Night Market to see what was happening there.  We were not  disappointed as the streets were swarming with people doing shopping for the Vietnamese New Year.  It was a lively, entertaining evening.


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Saigon to Hanoi to Ha Long Bay


We had an early wake-up call at 0600 to give us time for breakfast and the drive to the Tan Son Nhat Airport to catch our 1015 flight to Hanoi.  Millions of Vietnamese were traveling to be with family and friends for Tet, the Lunar New Year.  Many of the streets were elaborately decorated and people were rushing around getting last minute gifts and completing preparations for this big holiday.  We got to the airport quicker than expected and had time to enjoy a quick snack in the airport lounge before boarding our Vietnam Airline flight.  Two hours later we were in Hanoi boarding another bus which took us on a two hour drive to Ha Long Bay.



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Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City - Cathedral, Presidential Palace, War Museum and Cu Chi Tunnels


We were up an hour earlier than expected because the time zone on our clock was set for an hour east of Saigon time.  We're experiencing the same problem as the Russians - too many time zones.  We discovered this error when we showed up for breakfast before the restaurant was open.  So, it was back to our room to wait an hour to eat.  The rest of the day went well.  We visited the Notre-Dame Cathedral and Saigon Central Post Office which were built by the French during the colonial period.  We then went to the former Presidental Palace which was like the South Vietnamese "White House" during the Vietnam War.  Our last stop in Saigon was the War Museum followed by lunch and a long drive to Cu Chi on the way to Cu Chi, we stopped briefly at a factory where workers were creating lacquered works of art.  At Cu Chi we toured a tunnel complex from the Vietnam War.  We returned to the hotel very tired and just split a hamburger and fries with beer before calling it quits for the day.


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Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City Day 1


Our Air Asia flight from Beijing landed in Saigon shortly after noon.  Our baggage was among the first off and clearing in was quick and easy.  Our driver was right at the curb when we walked out of the terminal and we were soon on our way to our hotel.  The traffic here is very heavy and we surmise the object is to keep moving and let others adjust to avoid hitting you as you hold your speed and direction of travel.  Of course, the biggest vehicles seems to command some respect and can force their way into other traffic.  The ride to the hotel was about 45 minutes.  The Lunar New Year is in a week.  As in China, decorations are being set out on the streets and stores are having big sales as people run about buying presents to give to relatives and friends at the New Year.  The street scene in Saigon is much more hectic and congested than in Beijing.  The streets are also less well maintained and strewn with litter.  Different strokes for different folks.  The Vietnamese have a reputation for being very friendly.  So far, we have found that to the be case.  The weather is perfect.


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Tibetan Buddhist Lamasery and the Confucius Temple and University



The Happy Dragon Courtyard staff was very helpful as we prepared to leave Beijing for Vietnam. They kindly allowed us to stow our luggage for the day and arranged taxi service to the Capital International Airport.
On another cold morning, we set out by subway to visit the Tibetan Buddhist Lamasery. This enclave was once the home of the Crown Prince of China.  The oldest buildings date back to 1694. In 1744, the Qing Dynasty donated the estate to Buddhist monks.  It became a lamasery, a residence for large numbers of Tibetan Buddhist monks from Mongolia and Tibet.  The “Yonghe Lamasery” became the national center of Lama administration, the conduit for relations with these outer territories. It is an active religious site again, with monks in clear presence supervising the grounds.

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Chinese National Museum and Peking Duck




Our first full day in Beijing was dedicated to seeing the National Museum on Tienanmen Square, with a short stop at Mao’s mausoleum.
We took the subway, which was easy enough from our hutong hostel. A #5 line stop was just around the corner which allowed us to transfer to the #1 line to Tienanmen West. The subway is easy to navigate. Maps and ticket machines operate with an English language option. Once you figure out your stop you just use the ticket machine’s touch screen to buy your tickets. Our ride cost 3 yuan, or about 45 US cents.

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Entering China



As we approached the border to enter China, Dwayne realized he had mistakenly thrown away his Mongolian customs clearance records. We had visions of his being detained, pulled off the train in handcuffs and given a perp walk to the Customs Office. Dwayne quickly devised a plan, he would plead stupidity. Dwayne’s act would be to go  through all this accessible luggage with increasing frustration while the customs officer waited, and hopefully, the customs official would said forget it.
When we rolled in to Dzamyn-Ude, we were confronted again by a cute Mongolian immigration officer in full uniform regalia and a deeply stern face. She saluted as she came to our doorway, looking like she would use handcuffs on the slightest provocation. She collected our passports. Behind her came the customs officer. She asked for our papers. We handed ours over while Dwayne went into his act. She was patient, as Dwayne pulled all sorts of stuff out of his backpack and hand luggage. Finally, she gave up waiting and presented Dwayne some forms to compete confirming he and Carla had nothing to declare.  Paperwork in order she quietly left leaving an Oscar-winning performance behind.  So, with a sigh of relief, we were cleared by Mongolian Customs.


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Mongolia



Customs…one of those great equalizers. To leave Russia you have to entertain a half-dozen officials representing various agencies. We had the taciturn passport man with his electronic passport reader. Then the stone-faced customs lady who wanted to see the luggage, which we had to pull out from under our seats. Then some guy in military camouflage who looked like he just wanted to nap popped in. Then the dog ran through our cabin and you hoped it was not food motivated. It was like the Marx Brothers with all the people in our compartment and in the hallway. After about 90 minutes the train left to cross the border – pulling into Mongolian Customs about 20 minutes later.

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Irkutsk and Lake Baikal


We had no internet connection during our journey by train from Moscow to Beijing.  Also, we could not post to this blog while in China since the Chinese government blocked access to our blog site.  What follows are entries to complete our blog but posted at a much later date.  These are edited versions of postings made by Dwayne's brother, Brian, to his website dedicated to this trip.  Brian's site is at the following URL.  https://roundtheworld2018.wordpress.com/2018/01/page/2/

Irkutsk is a major rail center for eastern Russia known as “The Paris of Siberia”. We traveled slowly through kilometers of cars and shops that keep Russian Rail going. Arriving at the station about 0615 local time, the thermometer read -20C, or -5F. We suspect these are seasonable temperatures. People bundled up and went on with life.
An hour out of Irkutsk you climb into the Primorsky Mountains – not exactly the Rockies, but the views are scenic. Then you get a glimpse of Lake Baikal, the largest fresh water lake by volume on earth. We had a wonderful day to visit, with clear blue skies and bright sun reflecting off the ice and snow that covered the lake.

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Still in Siberia



It was almost 9 o'clock when the sun finally came over the horizon and shone through the line of birch trees that invariably line the way along the tracks. We were somewhat east of Mariinsk, and four time zones from Moscow. The snow here is carved by the wind – not drifted, but carved and shaped. Once again, it is apparently very cold, although we have no thermometer. We pass towns and villages that make us wonder, what do people do here? Most of the housing one sees is ramshackle. Industry is mostly invisible. Winter lasts nine months. And yet, people live here.

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