Kansas City to Galveston Anniversary Cruise
We drove to Galveston to join the rest of the family for Mike and Vicky's 10th Anniversary Cruise. Ten years ago we helped them celebrate their marriage by joining them on their honeymoon cruise. Its been 10 years since that memorable day and the number of revelers has increased - some had not yet been born.
We broke the trip up into a two day drive. Along the way, we passed "Standing Brave" on US Highway 69 in Big Cabin, Oklahoma. According to Roadside America, this Indian Chief is over 50 feet tall and guards the reservation's tax-free cigarette store. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cigar_store_Indian
I suppose it is OK for him to remain standing there since he is on an Indian reservation and he is in not in front of a cigar store. We do want to be politically correct.
The Wharf and Vikings
We went to Washington, D.C. to bid adieu to our friends Scott and Freddie who have their boat, Chardonnay docked at the Capitol Yacht Club. We also wanted to see the Draken Harald Harfagre, a full-sized replica of a Viking "Great Ship". This ocean going Norse ship is named after the Viking King Harald Harfagre who unified the people of Norway under his leadership. Archaeological discoveries were used as the basis for constructing the 115 foot long, 26 foot wide "Great Ship". According to Sigurd Aase, the primary personality involved in the project, "The aim of the Draken Harald Harfagre project is to explore the world and embrace the Viking spirit." The ship was constructed and set sail to do exactly that with stops in various ports among which was Washington, D.C. We were able to go aboard for a tour and had time to speak to some members of the crew. It was truly an amazing vessel and glimpse into the past. The Vikings were undoubtedly the best voyagers of their time and their sailing vessels carried them swiftly on their voyages of discovery and conquest. https://www.drakenhh.com/about-the-ship
Foreign Affair - Sold
Foreign Affair now has a new owner. We wish her well. We accomplished all we had set out to do aboard Foreign Affair and then some. Our original plan was to cruise for 2 years. Repeated extensions stretched our ownership to 4 years. It is now time to move on so we can spend more time with family and explore more of this wonderful world than possible at our average cruising speed of 5 knots. We have no regrets and many, many happy memories of our time aboard. We do not intend to give up cruising altogether; however, our time afloat will be measured in weeks rather than years. We thank all who were part of our big adventure and look forward to seeing again many of the people we met along the way. To all, "Fair winds and following seas."
Annapolis Boat Show
We volunteered to man the Seven Seas Cruising Association's booth at the Annapolis Boat Show. Friends of ours who are members of the Perry Yacht Club back in Kansas made a surprise appearance. Pat and his wife, Joan are also members of SSCA and live-aboard cruisers. They didn't tell us they would be in Annapolis for the boat show along with their daughter and son-in-law, Jon. Jon is a rigger and installed new standing rigging on our Catalina 27, Lucky Ones. We are always amazed at how often we run into friends and fellow cruisers both by chance and design.
Annapolis, Maryland
We returned to Maryland to complete the sale of Foreign Affair and remove the remaining items we had in storage at Dwayne's brother's house. We also made an effort to visit with friends in the area before heading back to Kansas after we sold our boat. Tom and Christina were among those we bid farewell. Tom is a featured speaker for various seminars presented at the Annapolis Boat Show. As a result, they are on the Bay in late September and head south for the winter shortly after the boat show. We enjoyed a brief visit and dinner together in Annapolis.
Seven Seas Cruising Association Annapolis Gam - Maryland Yacht Club
We had a wonderful time renewing old friendships and making new ones at the Seven Seas Cruising Association Annapolis Gam which was held at the Maryland Yacht Club. It was a wonderful setting and the club members were very welcoming. The seminars on a wide range of topics were particularly good. The banquet was served to a full house and the fellowship superb. Nigel Calder was the keynote speaker and provided us with a humorous and informative narration of his earliest days as a cruiser. His experiences made it clear that even the smartest among us often make dumb mistakes. His latest book, Shakedown Cruise: Lessons and Adventures from a Cruising Veteran as He Learns the Ropes, is a must read for anyone interested in cruising. It is a fast, humorous read filled with anecdotes that provide not soon to be forgotten lessons of value to the cruising sailor. Once again, the Gam was a special weekend of fun and learning in a wonderful setting.
Kansas City Renaissance Festival
We took some of the grandchildren to the Kansas City Renaissance Festival. It was a great sunny day and not too hot. We had a fun time exploring the fair grounds. The highlight of the day was the jousting and turkey leg snack.
Farmer, North Dakota to Kansas City
On our last day on the road, we stopped at the Mormon Trail Center at Winter Quarters in what is today Florence, Nebraska. Thousands of Mormons were forced to leave their settlement at Nauvoo, Illinois because of religious persecution. They began their journey westward in 1846 and established Winter Quarters on the banks of the Missouri River not far from Council Bluffs, Iowa. The settlement was quickly constructed and well laid out. Brigham Young organized wagon companies and sent them on their way west in the spring of 1847. Many of these Mormon settlers eventually arrived at Salt Lake City, Utah. Thousands others followed their lead. In 1852, over 10,000 Mormons arrived in their expanding settlement on the banks of the Great Salt Lake. The Mormon Trail Center is dedicated to educating visitors on the history of the Church of the Latter Day Saints and the role of its members in settling the West.
Deadwood/Lead to Farmer, South Dakota - Lead Gold Mines, Mount Rushmore National Memorial and the Iron Mountain Road (US 16A)
We got up early so as to be able to take in the first tour of the gold mines under Lead. The Black Hills Mining Museum provided us a great education on the evolution of hard rock mining in the Black Hills. It was interesting to compare how gold was extracted in the Yukon Territory and Alaska with what was being done in South Dakota and Wyoming. Gold mining continues in the area around Lead even today; however, the industry employs significantly fewer people than at the height of the early gold mining days. Our guide was a retired miner and gave us a very informative and fun tour as we were the only two people on the first tour of the day. We passed on the opportunity to pan for gold as we had already done so in the past and we had many miles to travel.
Broadus, MT to Deadwood/Lead, SD - Devils Tower National Monument and Deadwood's Mount Moriah Cemetery
We left Broadus on another sunny day and drove to Devils Tower before heading to Lead for the evening. It was another interesting drive. The sun shining on Devils Tower made it particularly spectacular. We made a quick stop at the Mount Moriah Cemetery in Deadwood to visit the gravesites of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane. We had a buffet dinner at one of Deadwood's historic hotels. Today these hotels advertise as casinos and slot machines dominate the gambling action. Our lodgings in Lead were in a house built in 1910 which was under renovation (or reconstruction). Part of Lead are settling due to sections of the mines under the town beginning to cave in unless they are shored up. None of the floors in the house we spent the night in were level and the owner said plumbing had to be replaced as pipes broke at times due to the house shifting.
Cody, Wyoming to Broadus, Montana - Buffalo Bill Center of the West and Little Bighorn National Momument
We spent the morning learning more about the early settlement of the West at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West. The Center is actually five museums co-located on a beautiful piece of land. The Buffalo Bill Museum contains numerous items which were the personal property of Buffalo Bill and his family. It is equipped with state of the art exhibits to include an automaton of Buffalo Bill telling a bit about himself as he welcomes visitors to his museum. The Plains Indian Museum educates us on the cultures, traditions and values of the various tribes which inhabited the Plains. Its extensive holdings and full scale dioramas help visitors reach a better understanding of the Native people's life on the Plains. The Cody Firearms Museum is probably the most extensive collection of firearms in the country. The museum does more than just exhibit weapons. It addresses the need for weapons and development of firearms. Many of the items on display are very rare. Even those who have little interest in firearms will find this museum worth a visit. The Draper Natural History Museum and Whitney Western Art Museum round out the Center. We could have spent and additional day at the museum but had to move on to Broadus for the evening.
Driggs, ID to Cody, Wyoming
We departed Driggs, ID and spent the morning in Jackson visiting the various art galleries and stopping for lunch at the Cowboy Bar. It was definitely a throwback to the 1950's. Old saddles served as bar stools. Silver dollars were embedded in the bar itself and western memorabilia was everywhere. They don't make them like this place anymore. Refreshed and saddle sore, we headed out of town toward Cody, Wyoming.
Grand Teton National Park
We began the day touring Jackson Hole. One of the interesting stops we made was the Mormon Row Historic District. Several Mormon families settled in the valley as homesteaders. Their farms were clustered along a stream which provided water for their livestock and crops. Several of their homes and barns are preserved and information tablets describing their lives and settlement are maintained by the park service. We made a stop at the Episcopal Chapel of the Transfiguration in which services were held for the vacationers of nearby "dude ranches". It was a quaint chapel in the middle of nowhere.
We came across Menor's Ferry and country store on the Snake River which was interesting.
Grand Teton National Park
We traveled through Yellowstone National Park southward on our way to Grand Teton National Park, Jackson Hole and Cody. We made a stop at the Lake Village and the Fishing Bridge Museum and Visitor Center. We walked along the lake shore and toured the Lake Hotel where we took lunch before leaving Yellowstone behind and entered the Jackson Hole Valley and Grand Teton National Park.
Yellowstone National Park
Today, we traveled along the western roads of Yellowstone NP with stops at Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, Fountain Paint Pot and Old Faithful. All of the sights were impressive; however, the Mammouth Hot Springs travertine terraces and Old Faithful were the highlights of the day. We only had to wait a few minutes after our arrival to see Old Faithful erupt. We then joined a park ranger for a tour of the Old Faithful Lodge and learned of the history and interesting architectural features of the lodge. After the tour, we had dinner at the lodge after which we again watched Old Faithful erupt. It was another wonderful day in one of the most amazing locations in the world. We still have much to see in the park and are looking forward to another great day tomorrow.
Yellowstone National Park
We made a brief stop to view the Sheepeater Cliffs on our way to the Norris Geyser Basin. The cliffs are made of columnar basalt which formed during a volcanic eruption. These cliffs are named after a band of Eastern Shoshone known as the Tukuaduka (sheep eaters). The Norris Geyser Basin was interesting; however, none of the geysers was up to our expectations compared to Old Faithful. A 6 to 8 foot high geyser was the best we saw. Still, it is amazing to see this geological phenomenon. The Norris Geyser Basin Museum is an interesting structure. It was built in 1930 and constructed of stone and log. This rustic building is one of the first of many of this style which can be found built in our parks during the 1930s. The museum is dedicated to life in the thermal areas of the park.
Yellowstone National Park
We began our first day in Yellowstone by entering at the Northeast Entrance and traveling along Soda Butte Creek, through the Lamar Valley and across the northern road to the Mammoth Hot Springs. We were amazed at the number of buffalo grazing in the immense valley and stopped more than once waiting for a herd to complete their crossing of the roadway. One can only imagine what the plains looked like when hundreds of thousands of these beautiful creatures roamed wild before the massive slaughter by buffalo hunters nearly exterminated the species. We also saw a good number of prong horn antelope and mule deer grazing in the early morning. It was a very pleasant drive.
Missoula, Montana to Cooke City-Silver Gate, Montana
We had a long drive from Missoula to Cooke City-Silver Gate which lie a few miles east of Yellowstone National Park's Northeast Gate. Along the way, we stopped at Fort Missoula to tour the historic frontier fort and visit some of the other local attractions. The site of Fort Missoula is now a living history park and includes exhibits and artifacts covering the 125 years since the erection of the fort in 1877 to protect settlers in the area during the Indian Wars. http://fortmissoulamuseum.org/
Hayden, ID to Missoula, MT
The highlight of the day was our tour of the Crystal Gold Mine in Kellogg, Idaho. Here we learned more about the process of hard rock mining during the 1880's. The mine has an interesting history as it is unknown who developed the mine and it appears the miners attempted to hide the location of the mine by blasting down part of the hillside to cover the entrance. One theory is that the miners where robbed and murdered while on their way to have their ore processed and obtain supplies. The mine was hidden for over 80 years. Its location was discovered when the entrance was exposed during the construction of Interstate 90 in the 1960's. Today, the mine has been preserved as an example of early, hard rock mining. We had a wonderful tour through the mine and furthered our knowledge of how gold was extracted and processed in the 19th Century. It is estimated that this mine was the work of two to four men cutting through hard rock at the rate of a couple of feet per day. Their tools and ore cart remained in the mine when the entrance was closed which supports the notion that the miners intended to return and re-open the mine. As a result, the mine became a time capsule of the industry.
Leavenworth, WA to Hayden, ID
Once again, we had a beautiful day for our drive from Leavenworth, Washington to Hayden, Idaho. Many of the wheat fields were being harvested. Grain trucks were busy transporting the golden kernels from the fields to the silos. We passed a large mound of grain on the ground as we passed Creston. The vastness of the wheat fields found on the western plains of the US and Canada is utterly amazing. The golden crop covers hundreds of square miles and is truly an ocean of grain.
We made a slight detour to visit the childhood home of Bing Crosby which is now located at Gonzaga University, his alma mater. The home now serves as a museum which is filled with Crosby artifacts to include the Oscar he received in 1944 as Best Actor for his role as Father O'Malley in the movie, Going My Way. Bing Crosby's career was long and record breaking. He appeared in 104 films, charted 368 records and scored the most number one hits - 38 (Beatles 24, Elvis 18). His recording of "White Christmas" is the most popular song and is a standard during the holiday season. He was truly one of the greatest American talents. It was a fun visit and brought back many memories.
Seattle to Leavenworth, Washington
We departed Seattle on another wonderful sunny day bound for Leavenworth, Washington. The town has turned itself into a tourist destination by architecturally replicating a Bavarian village. The Bavarian theme carries through to many of the shops and wine tasting is high on the list of things to do in Leavenworth. We wandered Leavenworth's downtown area admiring the buildings until we decided to head to the tasting rooms to sample some great Washington wine (wein probieren). We had dropped into two of the tasting rooms and left with a bottle of wine from each. We went to Andreas Keller for dinner which was authentic (echt). A skilled musician played and drank to the entertainment of all. This was our second visit to Leavenworth and better than the first which was many years ago. Once again, we had a wonderful, relaxing, early fall day to enrich our lives.
Seattle - Museum of Flight
We stayed with our friend, Keith, in Seattle for a couple of nights before heading east toward home. He suggested we take time to tour The Museum of Flight which is one of the largest and most comprehensive air museums in the world. We were there for over 4 hours examining planes dating from the earliest days of flight to the most modern space craft. It was a great way to spend the day. We later enjoyed visiting with Brian who allowed us to store our car in a spot he had available while we were on our cruise tour. We finished up with a wonderful meal at a Chinese restaurant not far from Keith's condo. Tomorrow, we finally begin our journey back to Kansas and Missouri.
Inside Passage and Vancouver
The remainder of our journey south on the Inside Passage was relatively uneventful. We saw an increase in the number of commercial ships and pleasure craft. Eventually, houses started to appear along the shoreline. It wasn't long before we found ourselves in Vancouver and debarking. Overall, our tour through Alaska, British Columbia and the Northwest Territory exceeded our expectations. We were blessed with excellent weather for the season. We met some wonderful people and developed new friendships. The cruise was fine but the inland tours were the highlight of the trip. We came to have a much better appreciation for the size of Alaska and the hardships endured by those who settled in this vast northern wilderness.
Ketchikan and Saxman
We arrived in Ketchikan just in time to meet our Tlinget native guide for our tour of Ketchikan and Saxman Village. The Tlinget people are interesting as, although they are "Native Americans", they have a culture which is in many ways different from the other "Native American" tribes from Canadian and the United States. For example, the Tlinget do not live on "Indian" reservations but have established Tlinget corporations to manage tribal property. The Tlinget live among the general population in their native territory: the Alaskan Panhandle, southern Yukon Territory and western British Columbia. The Tlinget establish villages, carve totem poles and build communal lodge houses. They rely on the sea for much of their food, particularly salmon. Although once recognized as fierce warriors who aggressively defended their territory, they never engaged in warfare with the Canadian or US military forces. The Tlinget were never forcibly moved to reservations.
Juneau
We arrived in Juneau just in time to catch the bus for our short ride to Salmon Creek for what was reputed
to be a wonderful outdoor experience and tasty salmon bake at the
site of an abandoned mining operation. Salmon Creek was less than
two miles from the cruise ship dock and a few blocks from urban
Juneau. Salmon Creek was once the site of a mining operation and
rusting, decaying mining equipment was scattered about the area in
which the salmon bake was served. The salmon served was sockeye
which is less tasty than king or silver salmon. The food was served
buffet style and much of it was hardly warm due to the cool
temperature and the fact the lids were left off many of the serving
trays. Paper plates and plastic ware were acceptable as it was an
informal setting. The “native” entertainment was a woman who
recently moved to Juneau from Las Vegas and played folk guitar.
“North to Alaska” and adaptations of “On the Dock of the Bay”
would not be considered “native” Alaskan entertainment by most people.
We were expecting members of the Tlingit tribe to be providing “native”
entertainment. The highlight of the experience was the small
waterfall on Salmon Creek. We boarded the Westerdam shortly after the salmon bake and a brief walk around the Juneau wharf. We looked forward to dinner and entertainment aboard ship. At least, we didn't get rained on. The weather has been beautiful for the entire trip, so far.
Haines
Our ship approached the dock at Haines as we were eating breakfast in the Lido restaurant which provided us a great view of the city. We were soon ashore on a beautiful warm, sunny day. We toured the grounds of what once was Fort William H. Seward/Chilkat Barracks. The US Army established the fort in 1904 to maintain order and provide a military presence in Alaska. Other attractions we visited during the day were the American Bald Eagle Foundation, the Hammer Museum and the Sheldon Museum & Cultural Center. The American Bald Eagle Foundation rescues injured birds and provides educational programs for visitors. It also has an extensive display of local wildlife. The Hammer Museum has a collection of several thousand hammers designed to meet almost as many specific needs of craftsman and DIYers. The Sheldon Museum & Cultural Center has exhibits focusing on the Tlinget tribal people and development of Haines. We returned to the ship just in time for dinner. The Westerdam was underway prior to dark bound for Juneau.
Glacier Bay
We entered Glacier Bay after two days of cruising south from Seward. Park rangers boarded early in the morning as we entered the bay and provided commentary as we worked our way to the Margerie Glacier. It was very foggy and overcast as we entered the bay which caused us great concern that we wouldn't see much of the bay's beauty. Shortly before reaching Margerie Glacier the sun broke through the clouds and soon the fog disappeared. We could not have asked for better conditions for viewing the bay in all its majesty on our way back during the 60 mile return run to the bay's mouth. Holland America Cruise Lines has permission to approach very close to Margerie Glacier which gave us a chance to see and hear the glacier as it continued its movement down the mountain and deposited large chunks of ice into the bay. It was amazing how quickly this glacier advanced and retreated over the past 400 years. This undoubtedly will be the highlight day of our cruise south.
Anchorage to Seward
We boarded the Cruisetrain to our journey to Seward via the scenic Alaska Railroad Coastal Classic route. Once again, we were treated to spectacular views from the rails. A tour guide provided a running commentary as the train rolled along. The three hour trip went quickly and we were soon boarding Holland America's Westerdam for our evening meal. Our cabin was larger than others we have had on previous cruises and very conveniently located. We are looking forward to our seven day cruise back to Vancouver.
Denali to Anchorage
We boarded the Alaska Railroad's luxurious McKinley Explorer for our 8 hour journey to Anchorage. The views from the rails were spectacular and covered terrain not accessible by car. The rail cars were custom built for the Alaska Railroad to provide the utmost visibility and comfort to tourists traveling to Denali National Park. A well-informed guide provided commentary which enhanced our experience by alerting us to points of interest and providing information about Alaska and the local environment. It was a long ride but went quickly due to the ever changing scenery.
Denali National Park
It rained much of our first day in Denali National Park which was a mixed blessing as we spent most of the day on our tour bus riding along the park's nature trail looking for wildlife. Our visibility of the mountains was limited; however, the animals come out into the open on overcast, rainy days as it is cooler for them. We were very fortunate in that we saw several brown bears, numerous caribou, a dozen or so of Dall sheep, half a dozen moose and even a wolf. Our pictures weren't the greatest as cell phone cameras do have limited zoom capabilities. The bus driver had a powerful video camera which was able to get us some great views of the animals on video screens mounted overhead on the bus. The rain did not dampen our spirits and probably made our day better than expected.
Fairbanks to Denali
After a quick driving tour of Fairbanks, we were off to Denali National Park. We stopped at Gold Dredge #8 to learn more about gold mining in Alaska and pan for gold. It was a very interesting tour as the various mining techniques were demonstrated from panning to dredging. The dredge was a massive piece of equipment that literally dug to bedrock as it meandered down rivers and streams pouring tons of gravel and rocks onto huge spoil piles as it moved along. Dredge #8 operated between 1928 and 1959. Millions of ounces of gold were extracted by the dredge during this 31 year period. We panned for gold after the tour. With a little coaching by our bus driver, we were able to pan out 30 grains of gold which at current gold prices would fetch about $30. Collectively, our bus departed with about $700 in gold as a result of our panning efforts. There is no plan to reopen commercial gold recovery using the dredge due to strict environmental regulations which make operating the dredge unprofitable.
Dawson, Yukon Territory to Fairbanks, Alaska
We spent the morning in Dawson further exploring the rest of the town and taking a short riverboat cruise on the Yukon River. The buildings in Dawson are built on permafrost. As a result, they sit on pilings resting on broad based wooden platforms. The buildings must be high enough off the ground to prevent the heated buildings from melting the permafrost under them. Almost all the buildings in Dawson are of wood construction. Of interest were those covered with tin plating to provide architectural detail. The Masonic Lodge was a prime example of the use of tin plating to create a splendid structure. Jack London's log cabin was moved to Dawson and is now on display there.
Whitehorse to Dawson
It was a very long ride by motor coach from Whitehorse to Dawson. We stopped several times along the way to stretch our legs and see points of interest along the way. There were very few vehicles traveling the highway which was a bit rough in spots. The weather really takes a toll on Yukon highways. We can't imagine trying to drive this route in the winter. It took us over 6 hours to get to Dawson which was the capital of the Yukon until that honor passed to Whitehorse in 1953. Dawson was a boom town with the population reaching a peak of about 30,000 in 1898. By 1902 the population was down to 8,000 with a large exodus as the gold fields played out. Today, the population of Dawson is less than 1,000 full-year residents. The streets are still dirt with the exception of Front Street which is asphalt. Sidewalks are wooden planks. The city boasts an international airport but the runway is a short 5,000 foot long stretch of gravel. We will fly out of here for Fairbanks. Today, tourism keeps the town alive.
Skagway to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory
We rode the White Pass Yukon Route Railway from Skagway to Fraser where we transferred to a touring bus for the final leg of our journey to Whitehorse, the capital city of the Yukon Territory. The train ride was all it reputed to be with steep drops from the edge of the tracks into the valleys below to towering mountains climbing straight up from the rails on the opposite side of the car. It is beyond us how this rail line was literally carved out of the mountains. Our experience on the train was much different than that of our bus ride yesterday on the highway which runs up the same valley but on the opposite side of the river. The bus never seemed like it was hanging over the edge of a cliff and the switchbacks were fewer giving us a less varied view of the surroundings. The train took 3 times as long to cover the same distance as the bus because it had to maintain a grade of less than 4% which required a much longer route and we traveled at much less speed. We are happy to have taken both excursions as doing so really presented the full beauty of the route and challenges with building roads and laying track in this vast wilderness.
Juneau to Skagway
Once again, we had perfect weather for our passage from Juneau to Skagway. We arrived in Skagway shortly after sunrise. We disembarked at 8 and had a quick tour of Skagway to include its historic cemetery and Reid Falls. We grabbed a quick lunch before heading off on a bus tour which took us into Yukon Territory. The scenery was everything we expected and then some. Once again, we had the rare luck of bright sun and few clouds. Our bus driver/guide said this was only the fourth time this year he had to wear sun glasses. It was a comfortable 68 degrees with a slight breeze.
Vancouver to Juneau
We traveled the Inside Passage from Vancouver to Juneau with a slight detour to Tracy Arm Inlet to view the glacier. The weather went from clear to very foggy and we had smoke from the British Columbia forest fires still impacting on the air quality and visibility for the first day of our trip. Carla was able to get a couple of glimpses of the glacier and ice in the Tracy Arm when the fog and clouds parted momentarily. Visibility improved later in the day and surprisingly, we saw two 38 - 42 foot long sloops motoring south as we headed north. They were a long way from any port so far as we know. The waters were very still and there was hardly any breeze. So, they were motoring.
Boarding the Volendam
We ate a leisurely breakfast and did a load of wash before heading to Canada Place to board Holland America Cruise Lines, Volendam, for the first leg of our Alaskan/Yukon tour. The boarding process was quick and uneventful. We were soon in the Lido Restaurant getting a late lunch. The ship is much smaller than we have been on in the past which is fine with us. At dinner we were seated with Robyne and Jim who are from Sarasota, Florida. Karen and Cheryl rounded out our table for six. Our table was close to but not directly at a window. Cheryl spoke to the restaurant manager and got us moved to a window table for the remainder of the trip. We enjoyed our first meal together and followed dinner with the introduction to the ship's singers and dancers at the main theater. We headed to our cabin after the performance as we were tired and ready for a good night's sleep.
Seattle to Vancouver
We passed the day taking a leisurely breakfast with Keith before heading downtown to catch our bus at the train station. We parked our car in a parking garage which a friend of Carla's had a spot available for us while we were on our cruise. Keith traveled with us to the garage and from there we went to the Pike Place Market see what might be happening there and to get some lunch. Carla took a video of the fish mongers throwing salmon. Dwayne and Keith had their picture taken with a monk fish which hung off the ice table with its mouth wide open. The fish mongers had a pole attached to it which ran under the ice. They occasionally would push/pull the pole to startle people who came up to the monk fish to take a close look. It was all entertaining as intended to amuse the tourists - to include us. We had lunch overlooking Puget Sound before Keith ran us to the train station where we caught our bus to Vancouver. The ride to Vancouver went quickly and we were in for the night by 6.
Kamloops to Seattle
We left Kamloops after our breakfast at the motel. During breakfast, we had a nice visit with a young fellow who makes his living as a member of a highway construction crew. Parts of the Trans Canada Highway are being widened to 4 lanes (2 each way) and this project will take several more years to complete. In the mountains, the work crews put in 12 to 18 hour days during the 4 to 5 months when the weather allows work to be done. Camps are established by the construction company near the work to reduce the amount of time commuting to the job site. The workers get a housing/subsistence allowance which is tax free. Workers with camp trailers get about $110 per day to cover their expenses. We wondered what arrangements were made since the distance between towns with lodging facilities was great and there were many men working on the highway.
Cochrane to Kamloops
We drove straight trough from Cochrane to Kamloops a distance of 365 miles which was the longest distance traveled by us in one day in Canada. It was raining when we left and continued to do so through most of the early afternoon. It was much needed rain. We were hoping it would remove some of the smoke from the air. Visibility did not improve much as clouds hung low in the mountain valleys, as well as, the smoke. We took turns driving and made good time. Along the way we observed an interesting sight which was a series of bridges over the highway which were built to provide animals in the area a "natural corridor" to cross the highway without being in danger of the fast moving vehicles on the highway. We wondered about the effectiveness of this effort.
Cochrane to Lake Louise and Return
We drove to Lake Louise hoping the smoke had cleared some but were disappointed to discover it was actually worse than yesterday. Traffic was terrible and parking was almost non-existent. We lucked out and found a parking spot less than a block from the lake and ranger information center. Most people were arriving on the shuttles which went to remote parking lots as far as 5 miles from the lake. The fare for a round trip shuttle was $10 per person. We saved $20 and got a primo parking spot. How lucky can you get? Of course, we've been losers as much as winners.
Calgary to Banff and Cochrane - Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum, Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies, Banff Park Museum and Lake Minnewanka
We drove directly from Calgary to Banff. Our first stop was the Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum where we learned more about the First Nation people who inhabited the area. Each of the museums we have visited featuring exhibits on the First Nation people has provided us additional information which is contributing to a better understanding of the rapid changes and challenges faced by the native people with the arrival of the White man.
Caronport, Saskatchewan to Calgary, Alberta - Blackfoot Crossing Historical Site
On the way to the Blackfoot Crossing Historical Centre we passed the largest teepee in the world which is located in Medicine Hat. This teepee was constructed for the 1988 Olympics and moved to Medicine Hat after the games. It is over 20 stories high and overlooks and ancient buffalo jump which was also the site of a major battle between the Blackfoot and Cree tribes. We didn't have time to do more than take a quick picture as we drove past. We wanted to get to Blackfoot Crossing to have ample time to explore the museum dedicated to the Blackfoot tribes.
Caronport, Saskatchewan to Medicine Hat, Alberta Delayed Due to Car Repair
We got an early morning call from Jay at the auto repair shop. He advised us that the nearest alternator he could locate for our car was in a town 4 hours away but he had arranged to have it put on a truck heading our way and if all went well the alternator would be on hand for installation around 3 p.m. Jay felt he could have us on the road by 4 or so, provided they didn't send the wrong alternator. We crossed our fingers and hoped for the best. We used the time waiting to get laundry done, catch up on the blog, read emails, watch some TV and get a nap before hitting the road again. Jay called shortly after 4 and our car was ready. We checked out of the Pilgrim Inn Motel, topped off the fuel tank and bought some sandwiches for the road. We drove straight through and arrived in Medicine Hat just before 9 p.m. Everyone in Caronport was very welcoming and helpful.
Regina to Caronport - Royal Canadian Mounted Police Depot Sergeant Major's Parade and Car Problems
We got up early to be able to take in a tour of the Saskatchewan Legislative Building and still get to the Royal Canadian Mounted Police Heritage Center for the Sergeant Major's Parade and a tour of the base. First, we stopped to tour the Saskatchewan Legislative Building. The legislative building is quite impressive as it is located in a vast park 3 times the size of New York City's Central Park and it stands overlooking Wascana Lake. Construction began in 1908 and the building was completed in 1912. Its architecture is in the Beaux Arts style and was the tallest building in Saskatchewan for many years. The exterior is of Manitoba Tyndall stone. The interior is most impressive as marble from Canada, Italy, Isle of Cyprus and Vermont decorate the entrance and rotunda. The building's recently renewed copper dome is 56 meters high, The legislative chamber was quite interesting as the chairs for the assembly members sit facing each other on tiered floors and the chairs are movable so if one party loses seats they are moved across the aisle to join the seats of their party. Additionally, the mace, representing royal authority, sits on the Parliamentary table with the head of the mace resting upon a beaver pelt and facing the majority party. The mace's staff end faces the opposition party. Chairs for former assembly members and prime ministers line the walls should any former members wish to attend a session of the assembly. Of course, a portrait of Queen Elizabeth II, the Queen of Canada, is prominently hung above the prime minister's chair. The opposition party is greatly outnumbered by the Saskatchewan Party.
Brandon, Manitoba to Regina, Saskatchewan The Royal Canadian Mounted Police Heritage Center
We drove straight through from Brandon to Regina hoping to arrive in time for the Royal Canadian Mounted Police Sergeant's Major Parade at the RCMP "Depot" Division which provides training for all members of the RCMP. We arrived in plenty of time since the parade was cancelled due to a Civil Holiday. The first Monday of August is a national holiday in Canada but without any significant event being commemorated. We noticed almost every business other than fast food and fuel stops were closed for the holiday. When we asked the locals what was being celebrated, no one could give us more information other than the Canadian government decided Canadians would get off the first Monday in August resulting in a three day weekend. Later we learned, some provinces have designated a name for the holiday rather than just call it Civil Holiday. For example, in British Columbia it is British Columbia Day (what else would they call it). The RCMP Heritage Center was open. So, we toured the facility and were impressed with the history and service provided by the RCMP. We will come back tomorrow to view the Sergeant Major's Parade.
Winnipeg to Brandon - The Royal Canadian Mint
We slept in and finally got around to having breakfast at Tim Horton's which is a Canadian chain restaurant that is a mash-up of Dunkin Donuts, Starbucks and Paneras. We got some donuts and coffee before heading off to The Royal Canadian Mint. There we were amazed to learn about modern minting techniques. The mint has even developed a coin that glows in the dark. We also learned that the Winnipeg mint produces coinage for numerous foreign countries. Over 75 countries have had contracts with the mint and billions of foreign coins have been shipped from Winnipeg to locations around the world. Carla learned what a "loonie'" and "toonie" were. Dwayne got to heft a gold bar which at today's spot market was valued at more the $700,000 Canadian. Of course, there was a guard standing by to make sure no one did more than heft the bullion. We had a great guide and enjoyed our tour. We made a stop at Portage la Prairie to visit the heritage park there. It was also interesting with numerous historic buildings collected from the local area to depict life from the late 19th to mid-20th Century. We neglected to take any pictures. It was worth the visit.
Fargo, ND to Winnipeg, Manitoba Hjemkomst Center and St. Norbert Provincial Heritage Park
We departed Fargo heading north on I29 so as to have ample time to tour the Hjemkomst Center in Moorhead, Minnesota and still get to Winnipeg well before dark. The Hjemkomst Center houses one of the finest museums dedicated to preserving and interpreting Scandinavian culture and heritage in America. Two unique exhibits are the Hjemkomst, a reproduction of a ocean-going Viking ship and a Stavekirke, Norwegian for stave church. Additionally, there was a very interesting section of the museum dedicated to the experience of local residents and the impact on their lives during World War I. Lastly, a section of the center provided us with an education on the social customs and norms of alcoholic consumption in Norway. Skol!
Morton, Minnesota to Fargo, North Dakota - Runestone Museum
We made just one museum stop during our drive from Morton to Fargo. In Alexandra, Minnesota we learned about the earliest European explorers to America - the Vikings. The first Scandinavians to come to Minnesota were a band of Vikings who left a record of their visit in 1362 by leaving behind what is now known as the Kensington Runestone. This artifact was discovered in 1898 by Olof Ohman while clearing an aspen tree from a field on his farm. It records the death of 10 Vikings who were apparently massacred by Indians while separated from the main body of their Viking band. The runestone is on exhibit at the museum, as well as, other Viking artifacts found in the area.
Exhibits – Runestone Museum
Blair, Nebraska to Morton, Minnesota Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, Sergeant Floyd Monument, Fort Atkinson and "Sod House on the Prairie"
In Sioux City, we visited the Lewis
and Clark Interpretive Center.
It
is a very modern museum with robotic mannequins to portray key
figures who through their monologues reveal important facts about the
expedition. President Thomas Jefferson provides visitors with
an overview by repeating his instructions for Meriweather Lewis and
charging him with organizing and leading the "Corps of
Discovery". There was an extensive display of Indian
artifacts and exhibits related to Indian life and relations with the
American explorers. It is well worth the time invested in this fine
interpretive center. A few miles away is a 100 foot tall obelisk marking the gravesite of Sergeant Charles Floyd, Jr. who was the only man of the "Corps of Discovery" to die during the Lewis and Clark Expedition.
Leavenworth, Kansas to Blair, Nebraska - Missouri River Basin Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center and Sergeant Floyd River Museum
It is off to Alaska via Canada. We are taking a road trip to Vancouver where we will begin our journey north to Alaska and the Yukon Territory. The first leg of our driving tour took us from Leavenworth to Blair, Nebraska. We are avoiding the inter-state highways as much as possible and covering about 250 miles or so per day. We made several stops on this leg. We visited the Missouri River Basin Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center and the Sergeant Floyd River Museum, Sergeant Floyd was the only member of the Lewis and Clark "Corps of Discovery" to die during the over two year long expedition.
Boating on Lake Perry
We ended the week with another fine day on Ahhh Rested tubing and swimming with family and friends on Lake Perry. Eric and Kelly have been getting out at least twice a week since they launched in early May. Eric's schedule allows for an early start to the weekend and they are usually on the lake by 4 which puts them just ahead of the weekend boaters. They have identified several choice spots for swimming. Eric has enough experience with the boat now and can give the kids a thrill ride on the tube as he twists and turns Ahhh Rested to create wakes and whip the tube to everyone's delight. Kelly has mastered the task of getting the boat into the slip and the boat lift really makes it nice when we have to clean the hull. Too bad we will be traveling the remainder of the summer and miss out on these great family fun days.
Jacomo Sailing Club and Jackson County Park Sail Campers
Dwayne spent two days on Lake Jacomo with other members of the Jacomo Sailing Club taking kids participating in the Jackson County summer camp program out for a sail. JSC has partnered with the park system in this program. Over 70 kids were able to hoist and trim sails, as well as, take a turn at the helm of one of the six cruising boats skippered by members of the JSC. The weather was almost perfect for this outing. Winds were in the 8 - 12 mph range with gusts up to 15. Some dark clouds threatened rain; however, the sailing for the day was finished before the drops began to fall. Dwayne and the JSC Commodore, John had to wait until a brief but severe storm passed before being able to move their boat from Sailboat Cove to the South Marina. Dwayne is looking forward to helping with the youth program and becoming more active with the club now that we are spending more time at home in Kansas and Missouri. It was exciting to see how the club has grown during the three years while we were actively cruising aboard Foreign Affair.
Rock Hall to Annapolis
We moved Foreign Affair from Haven Harbour Marina in Rock Hall to Bert Jabin Yacht Yard on the Back River in Annapolis. Tomorrow, she will be hauled and put on Brokers' Row for sale. It is time to turn her over to Keith Mayes with Annapolis Yacht Sales to get her sold. Its is time for us to return to Kansas and Missouri to spend time with friends and family. We are looking forward to being home during the 4th of July holiday.
Our trip across the Bay was a great way to end our days of sailing Foreign Affair. Initially, the winds were 10 knots and increased in velocity to 15 as we continued to move toward the Bay Bridge. It was definitely one of our best days of sailing ever. Unfortunately, we had to drop sail just north of the Bay Bridge as a storm front started to move in and the winds were really picking up speed. A weather alert came over our VHF radio to warn of the storm's location, direction of travel and intensity. We motored the rest of the way to Annapolis and arrived just in time to get the sail cover on before it rained. Keith met us at the dock and helped us secure the boat for the evening. We were parked opposite a superb ocean racer capable of going three to four times our best speed of the day which was 6.7 knots. Foreign Affair was in the grove all morning. It was a rare, super sail day.
Washington, D.C. - The Wharf and Capital Yacht Club
We drove from Rock Hall to Washington, D.C. to visit with Scott and Freddie who supported our being named commodores in the Seven Seas Sailing Association. We first met them back in September, 2015 when we took Foreign Affair up the Potomac River to spend some time touring our nation's capital. We ended up staying almost three weeks due to too much fun and waiting for Hurricane Joaquin to pass.
Freddie has served as Commodore for the Capital Yacht Club and continues to work long, hard hours in support of CYC. Scott is busy with a major refit of their once beautiful - soon to be gorgeous 60 foot Seaton ketch. We had a pleasant reunion and enjoyed a couple of bottles of chardonnay while bringing each other up to date on life in general and our plans for the future. The Wharf and new Capital Yacht Club facilities are truly world class. Lunched at the fish market. We'll be back.
St.Michaels Classic Boat Show
We are getting near the end of our stay on the Eastern Shore. Before crossing back over to Annapolis to put the boat up for sale with a broker, we decided to visit some of our favorite Eastern Shore places and say good bye to a few friends. Our first stop was St. Michaels where the annual Classic Boat Show was in full swing. Dozens of wonderfully restored wooden and early non-wooden boats were on display. The mahogany Chris Craft runabouts with their deep-throated engines and barrel back decks are our favorites. Of course, sailing vessels were also represented with the Chesapeake Bay skipjacks holding top honors among wind-powered craft. Their decks were full of people taking advantage of the opportunity to sail on one of these historic craft. We enjoyed re-visiting the Maritime Museum and learning more about life on the Chesapeake Bay and how it has changed over the many years. Unfortunately, many of the changes were for the worse due to over fishing and pollution from many sources as the Bay is fed by hundreds of tributary rivers in several states.
Detailing Foreign Affair
Carla had her toothbrush out along with her stainless steel polish. She's getting down to the fine details on the stanchions and hand rails. We never cease to be amazed at how much damage salt water can quickly do to a boat. Even here on the upper Chesapeake Bay with its brackish water, we need to be constantly scrubbing. She doesn't complain but just keeps at it.
The rigger was aloft today changing out an anchor light and adding a television antenna to a boat nearby. Usually, riggers go aloft in a boatswain's chair. I guess a crane is helpful when you want to be a bit higher than the top of the mast so you can get a better angle for the work being done. I hope the boat owner is only paying for the rigger's time and not the crane time as well.
All Work and No Play Make Jack (Jill) A Dull Boy (Girl)
As it happens nearly every day on the boat, we did some maintenance; however, we played more than we worked today. The marina is also a resort and has many games and activities for its guests. The bocce ball court was vacant as it was a weekday. So, we decided to try our hand at rolling the balls. A Google search provided us the rules and we did our best to learn the game. It appears we are equally unskilled but improved our performance over time. We enjoyed our play and might look for a bocce league when we return to a more settled life in the future.
Galley Whale Pump Rebuilt
We spent the day working off tasks from our list of things to be done on Foreign Affair. The small Whale pump on the galley sink leaked from the day we acquired the boat on Labor Day weekend, 2014. We ordered a rebuild kit from West Marine. Dwayne had no difficulty disassembling the pump but putting it back together again was a bit challenging as one of the rubber seals made screwing the pump barrel back onto its housing difficult. Eventually, the pump was reassembled and installed. Another 15 minute job that took nearly three quarters an hour to complete. As often as not, simple tasks become time consuming irritants. As a friend once shared with us and we remind ourselves on these occasions, "This is the life we have chosen." Still, it is worth the frustration.
Dutchman and Swimming
We spent most of the morning and part of the afternoon installing and adjusting our Dutchman Sail Flaking System. It was a tedious task and at times frustrating because everything has to be adjusted just right or the system won't work as well as intended. Eventually, we got it adjusted to where it seemed to be working well. We'll find out for sure when we next take the boat out and drop the main sail. The Dutchman together with the Strong Tides Track System makes dropping and flaking the sail very easy. To celebrate and cool off after completing this major job, we went swimming in the cold water of the marina's pool. It was refreshing and we dried while relaxing on the poolside lounge furniture. We started out reading but were soon napping protected from the sun by trees bordering the pool. Work hard - Play hard.
Here is a link to a short YouTube video describing the Dutchman Sail Flaking System.
Haven Harbour to Herrington Harbour - Via Car
We got a courtesy ride from the Haven Harbour Marina to Chestertown where we rented a car from Geno's U-Save Car Rental so we could drive to Herrington Harbour to get our car which was left there while we moved Foreign Affair to Rock Hall. The round trip was 140 miles which we made in about 5 hours. We also made a quick trip to West Marine in Deale to pick up parts for our galley Whale pump which was leaking when in use. We dropped the rental car off on our way back to Rock Hall. Its good to have the car and boat in one place again. We still have quite a list of things to do on the boat to get her in top condition for sale. Haven Harbour is a great marina to get work done. The challenge is that the current workload is keeping everyone very busy and we just have to wait until the right person for the job we need done is available. In the meantime, we do as much as we can and seek advice from the experts. Patience is a virtue. We work by Boating Standard Time.
Herrington Harbour to Haven Harbour
We departed Herrington Harbour around 9 a.m. northbound for Rock Hall and Haven Harbour Marina. It was warm and sunny with a slight 5 knot breeze from the south which allowed us to sail almost all the way up the bay at a slow but steady 4 knots. It was great being under sail again. You never know what interesting sights you will encounter on the Bay. A Japanese Coast Guard cutter passed under the Bay Bridge as we approached the bridge. We suspect she was heading south for the "Tall Ships Weekend" at Norfolk, Virginia. Frank and Carol on Hakuna Matata will be sailing as escorts for one of the tall ships arriving for the festival. If we weren't selling the boat, we'd be sailing south ourselves bound for Norfolk. We really enjoy the maritime festivals and will miss not being able to participate or be part of the fun while on the water in our own vessel.
Car in For Repair
After 3 days of constant rain, we were very happy to get into the car and head back to Columbia where we will get to spend a day or two with family while the car goes into the shop to get the left front wheel bearing replaced. It is always something that needs repair - usually it is the boat rather than the car. In any case, we drove slowly and stayed off the interstate during the 50 mile trip from Herrington Harbour to Columbia. The good news was the car could be repaired in a day. Then, it is back to Herrington with the prospect of having to return to Haven Harbour to have a new air conditioning system installed which will make the boat more attractive to potential buyers. The system could be replaced at Herrington; however, the backlog of work there would result in more delay and we can get the work done sooner at Haven Harbour. Perhaps, we will pass under the Bay Bridge once again. At least, this time we are hoping to have favorable wind from the south as we head north rather than beating all the way to Rock Hall. Lately, the wind has been mostly southerly.
Bending on Sail
Cecil and Elena of S/V Sophia came by to help us bend on our sails. We first met them in Nassau, The Bahamas where their boat was docked in the slip next to us. We became good friends while hole up in the marina waiting out bad weather. Elena taught Carla how to make cracked conch. Later, we ran into them at St. Augustine. We were both heading north and sailed up the Florida coast together. They ducked in at the St. John's River while we continued on to Georgetown, South Carolina. It was a fun reunion despite the fact that work was involved. It is just part of the cruising life-style. We hope to be able to spend more time together just relaxing rather than working on boats.
Ride to Columbia
Allan and Linda of S/V Sea Shadow dropped by this morning for a quick visit before heading off to the marina restaurant for breakfast. Allan took us under his wing when we first arrived in Herrington Harbour back in April, 2015. He was the proud owner of a Catalina 320 at the time and now owns a Catalina 387 which is very similar to our Catalina 380. Dwayne last saw them when he took a mooring in Annapolis back in June, 2017. Once again, it was a happy reunion. They helped us out by giving us a ride to Columbia where we will rent a car to cross over to Rock Hall and recover our car from the Haven Harbour Marina and drive back to Herrington Harbour. It will be nice to have wheels again. It really helps to have friends in many places.
Haven Harbour to Herrington Harbour
We cast off at 1000 on a bright sunny day. Winds were from the south at 10 knots when we reached the deeper water off Rock Hall. Dozens of sailboats were already enjoying a wonderful day in ideal sailing conditions. Winds built to 15 knots by noon. We estimate there were close to 100 fishing boats anchored or trolling just north of the Bay Bridge and near Sandy Point Light. There was a lot of boat traffic passing under the Bay Bridge. It was bitter sweet to think we were going under it for what most likely will be the last time. Hundreds of sailboats were sighted off Annapolis, "The Sailing Capital of America". We altered course some to pass close to the Thomas Point Light which is the only Chesapeake Screw Pile lighthouse left on the Bay in it original location. Finally, we arrived at Herrington Harbour with its huge American flag flying on a tall flagpole at the breakwater entrance. We took our place at the very end of K Dock which was exactly the perfect place to be showing a boat for sale. It was a fun day on the water and good to know Foreign Affair was in great shape, ready for more adventures.
Launch Day
Foreign Affair finally returned to the water after being laid up for the winter. It was a sunny day with moderate temperatures which made it a festive occasion. The marina was busy with people working and partying on their boats at the start of the Memorial Day weekend. We were one of the first to launch for the day which was nice as we were able to celebrate by having dinner and drinks at the marina restaurant while we relaxed for the evening. We will cast off tomorrow for a run down the Bay to Herrington Harbour South where we will take a slip until we have a buyer for Foreign Affair.
Back to Work - Preparing to Launch Foreign Affair
We continued to work on our pre-launch checklist. We lowered the dinghy off Foreign Affair's front deck using a spare halyard. Carla spent part of the day cleaning the dinghy. Dwayne continued to compound and wax the hull. We were lucky to have the use of a tall ladder and a nearby boat to assist with getting high enough to attach the block and tackle to the davit. Using the ladder, Dwayne was able to climb aboard the yacht behind us and reach over the pulpit far enough to attach the block and tackle to one side of the davit. For the other side, Dwayne attached himself to the outboard motor hoist by securing the hoist's lifting hook to his belt. He then climbed to the very top of the ladder and by stretching out, he could attach the block and tackle to the davit. Carla used the outboard motor lift to keep him from falling off the ladder. Where there is a will, there is a way. Still much to do before the launch.
Fort Necessity
We stopped at Mount Washington Tavern and Fort Necessity on our way back to Maryland. The tavern is was a stage stop and inn located on the National Road which was the major highway connecting the western frontier with the east. The tavern dates back to 1830 and sits on land once owned by George Washington. http://www.scenicusa.net/071112.html
Tippecanoe - Battle Ground, Indiana
Dwayne's mother passed away at age 95. She had a stroke as she was going to bed after watching a Brewer's baseball game. He spoke to her during the game and she was in good spirits and all seemed normal. She lived a good life and was independent and mentally alert until her final hours. We headed to Wisconsin for her funeral and stopped at the Tippecanoe Battlefield in Battle Ground, Indiana on the way.
Wash, Compound, Polish and Wax
Carla spent the day refinishing the navigation station desktop. The finish was wearing thin and it was a project we had put off for a long time since we used the nav station daily. It was time to restore the desktop. Dwayne continued to work on the outside while Carla worked on inside projects. He washed, compounded, polished and waxed Foreign Affair's hull. This project took two full days to complete - a day for each side. The stern will take another day since it has so many contours and a smaller buffer will have to be used. Foreign Affair looks better than the day we bought her.
New Bottom Paint
A major milestone was reached with the completion of repainting Foreign Affair''s bottom. We used Interlux Micron CSC bottom paint again as it performed well during our more than two years of travels. The boat's bottom was amazingly clean when she was hauled in the fall. A quick power wash was all that was needed before her lay up for the winter. Two coats of Micron CSC were applied to the hull. The propeller was sanded, primed and painted using Interlux Primocon Primer and Interlux Trilux 33 prop paint. A new Martyr brand anode was installed Foreign Affair was looking really good at the end of the day. Doing the bottom is one dirty, tiring task.
Back to Work - Crib Boards Varnished and Boat Bottom Sanded
It was back to work on Foreign Affair. Carla refinished the crib boards while Dwayne sanded the bottom in preparation for new bottom paint. Both projects took most of the day. Carla put a second coat of waterproofing on the bimini while the wood sealer dried before applying varnish to the crib boards. It was a long, warm day but much was accomplished. We were tired but feeling good by sundown. After taking showers, we relaxed on the marina's captain's lounge deck with our rum and coke. Much still needs to be done before launching. We still have a few day to complete the work.
Frederick,MD - National Museum of Civil War Medicine, Mount Olivet Cemetery, Monocacy Aqueduct
Carla returned from her visit with family in North Carolina and after a day of rest, we headed to Frederick, Maryland to tour the area. The National Museum of Civil War Medicine was very interesting. Several battles were fought not far from Frederick and the city became a major clearing station for the wounded and had numerous hospitals caring for soldiers, both Union and Confederate. The evolution of medical evacuation, care and treatment was presented through exhibits containing artifacts and photos of medical equipment and care facilities. The museum itself was in a building which served as a hospital during the Civil War. It was well worth the visit.
Anchors Dropped, Rode Inspected and Chain Locker Cleaned
Pre-launch work continued with Dwayne dropping the anchors, inspecting and remarking the chain, washing out the chain locker and checking the windlass operation. It was a very hot day again and dragging chain around the boat yard to lay it out was tiring. A nap was required to overcome the fatigue and wait for cooler evening temperatures before work continued. Dwayne headed to his brother's in Columbia after a bit of sorting out of items in the cabin.
Washing and Waxing
Dwayne spent the day washing and waxing the cockpit, cabin top and propane locker. He went to the hardware store for propane and Bacon's for parts. It was a very hot day setting a record for hitting above 90 degrees. A siesta was warranted during the hottest time of the day. Slowly but surely, Foreign Affair is coming along. Shes getting the spa treatment she deserves after over two years of cruising without a haul out for a complete work over. She's starting to really shine again.
Monocacy National Battlefield and Great Food
Dwayne and Debbie took advantage of the sunny, warm day to tour the Monocacy National Battlefield near Frederick, Maryland. Debbie and her son participate in Civil War re-enactments and Frederick was only an hour drive from Columbia. The National Park Service has a good display describing the battle. Although a small engagement compared to other battles such as that at Gettysburg, it was one of the most important and known as "The Battle That Saved Washington". We were hungry after tromping through the fields exploring the battlefield. A great find was the Black Hog BBQ. They are highly ranked on food review websites and did not disappoint. Dwayne had the Memphis Dry Rub Ribs which were better than most served in Memphis. We took an auto tour of Frederick before heading to Baltimore where we met with the rest of the family at Michael's Steak and Lobster House for dinner. Sixteen of us gathered to feast on the Monday Specials. Dwayne ordered the 32 oz prime rib which came with a baked potato. He ate it all. Michael's is definitely on the visit again list. Once again, it was another great day in Maryland.
Dom's Christening
It was a big day for Dom and the entire family. He was confident and composed for his baptism. Everyone at the reception after the church service complimented him and his parents on his alert yet quiet demeanor. Later in the day, friends and family gathered at Dom's apartment for further festivities. It was a wonderful day and despite the cool temperatures, a number of guests enjoyed themselves on the patio. Once again, it was a great day in Maryland.
Birthday Party - Ice Skating Followed by Crab and Shrimp Boil
Paige turned five and had a wonderful birthday celebration at the local ice skating rink. Most of the adults tried to stay warm while watching the kids enjoy time on the ice. Later in the day, the party continued with a crab and shrimp boil. When the table was cleared as the sun went down, only 3 crabs, a couple of ears of corn and a few potatoes were left. Just enough for someone's lunch the following day. It was fun day for Paige and everyone else who helped her celebrate turning 5.
Sails and Keel
It was a beautiful day to head back to Foreign Affair to check on the work being done on her keel and to bring the sails out to be bent on once she was in the water. Debbie went along to lend a hand and all went well. We used the outboard motor hoist to raise the sails to the cockpit and getting them below decks was not too difficult. The marina's fairing expert, Kevin had already completed applying the G-Flex to the keel/keel stub joint. We decided to have the torque on the keel bolts checked and redo the seal around the keel and keel stub because there was evidence of the original fiberglass seal beginning to de-laminate. Catalina Yachts advised us this is not surprising for a boat our age and provided instructions on how to resolve this issue. Once the keel work is complete, we will be able to apply bottom paint and Foreign Affair will be ready to launch.
Carla to North Carolina - Dwayne to Annapolis
After four days of hard work on the boat and knowing our launch would be at least two weeks in the future, it was decided that Carla could take a break and head off to North Carolina to spend time with her children and grandchildren. Dwayne would remain in Maryland to celebrate a birthday and baptism with members of his family, as well as, continue to work on Foreign Affair. Carla enjoyed a beautiful ride through the Shenandoah Valley and eastern North Carolina while Dwayne headed to Annapolis for boat parts. Of course, Dwayne had to stop at a couple of his favorite places - Chick & Ruth's Delly and Bacon's Marine. You never know what your might find at Bacon's.
Preparing to Launch Foreign Affair
We left Columbia around 10 to avoid the rush hour traffic. By noon, we were at Foreign Affair and opened her up to discover she had weathered the winter well. The shrink wrap did its job of keeping the deck clean and water out. The boat was left with several hatches cracked and numerous packets of desiccant throughout the boat. She smelled pretty good within an hour of our opening other hatches to create good airflow. We accomplished much during the next four days. We worked together removing the shrink wrap. Dwayne washed and waxed the hull while Carla refinished the crib boards and nav station desk top. The dual action rotary polisher was left behind. So, Dwayne had to do the wash and wax job by hand. Carla wiped down the boat's interior with cleaning towelettes. She also cleaned and waterproofed the bimini and dodger. We are having new straps made up for the bimini as the old ones needed to be replaced due to old age and wear. The batteries were checked, water added and then shore power was connected to activate the battery charger. Several trips were made to the Dollar Store, hardware store and super market for food and supplies. We did eat out once at Ford's where we enjoyed some great crab soup and crab cakes. After four days of work, we returned to Columbia due to rain.
Starting the Bourbon Craft Whiskey Trail
Bardstown is the second oldest city in Kentucky and was a center of commerce in the late 18th and well into the 19th Century. Today it is a charming city of about 12,000 and the Bourbon Capital of the World. Kentucky produces 95% of the world's bourbon and much of it comes from Nelson County of which Bardstown is the county seat. Jim Beam, Heaven Hill, Maker's Mark, Barton 1792 and Willett are a few of the distilleries operating in and about Bardstown. We made a quick stop at Barton 1792 and purchased a couple of bottles of their unique Bourbon Ball chocolate flavored bourbon. Tastes better than the bourbon ball candy. From there, it was a short ride to Willett Distillery which is across the road from Jim Beam. Willett is a family owned and operated, small batch distillery which was re-established after the end of Prohibition. There were only four of us on the late morning tour. So, we got to take our time and ask a lot of questions. Willett has a unique bottle which is shaped like their pot still. It was too cute to pass up so we purchased a couple of bottles of their fine bourbon. Willett became our first stop on the Bourbon Craft Whiskey Trail. Only 12 more distilleries to visit before our BCWT Passport is complete. The rest of the day was spent driving through Kentucky, West Virginia and Maryland to Columbia.
Heading East - Bardstown, Kentucky - The Old Talbott Tavern
After a brief sojourn in Kansas City, Dwayne and Carla departed for Maryland to launch Foreign Affair. They spent the night at the Talbott Tavern in Bardstown, Kentucky. This former stagecoach stop was built in 1779 and has provided a comfortable resting spot for many famous personages over the past 239 years. Of course, the place is haunted. We slept well and heard no bumps in the night. Perhaps, it was because we had a hearty meal at at the inn's restaurant and enjoyed a flight of bourbon as our night cap. Our room was down the hall from the Jesse James Room which still has bullet holes in the wall from his last visit as a human. His ghost allegedly periodically appears but not during our stay. We have more to see and do in Bardstown. Perhaps, we will stay there again on our way back to Kansas. The old town jail has been converted to a B&B. Maybe, we'll stay there on our next visit.
Churchill Downs and Louisville Slugger
We had a leisurely breakfast before heading off for our behind the scenes tour of Churchill Downs. It was a small group tour which lasted 90 minutes and took us to areas not seen by those on the standard tour. We visited the jockey training and dressing rooms, the owner's suites and corporate boxes, the restaurants and got a great view of the track and paddock from the Millionaire's Row terrace. The Churchill Downs Museum was informative and fun. Trophies of all three Triple Crown stakes races were on display as well as the Triple Crown trophy. Dwayne and Martin had a chance to try their best to win a couple of races as jockeys on the computerized riding systems. Martin was in the money on both of his races. Dwayne carried too much weight and finished at the rear with mud on his face. The track was really busy with construction and painting being done in preparation for the Kentucky Derby which is run the first week of May.
Bourbon Trail Marathon Day
We visited 5 distilleries in a marathon day of touring and tasting. We completed our official Bourbon Trail Tour with visits to Four Roses, Wild Turkey, Woodford Reserve and Town Branch distilleries. Buffalo Trace is not one of the distilleries among those sponsoring the Bourbon Trail; however, we were able to squeeze it in as both Eric and Dave put it on their high priority list. We ended the day with a superb steak dinner at Tony's of Lexington where Martin devoured a 24 ounce Porterhouse.
Thoroughbreds and Keeneland Racecourse
Besides bourbon, Kentucky is also famous for its fine thoroughbred horsed. We left Louisville early in the morning to arrive in Lexington to watch the last of the morning workout at Keeneland Racecourse. A couple of dozen horses were still being put through their paces when we arrived. From Keeneland, we headed to Magdalena Farm for a tour of Trainer Kenneth McPeek's breeding and training facility. We grabbed a quick lunch at Hopcat before it was back to Keeneland for the races. Unfortunately, we were delayed due to being rear-ended while waiting at a stop light. The.damage was minimal and no one was hurt. We missed the first two races. Our first bet of the day was a $6 combo and returned $16.20 when our horse came in second. Our last bet was a boxed exacta which went south when two 30 to 1 long-shots came in 1st and 2nd ahead of our picks. The exacta payout for the winners was $1,780.20. We left the track with our wallets intact and returned to Louisville tired but happy to have had another great day in Kentucky.
Bourbon Trail - Day 2 - Jim Beam, Heaven Hill and Maker's Mark
After breakfast, we drove to Clermont to tour the Jim Beam Distillery facilities. "Jimmy" is Dwayne's primary bourbon for mixed drinks and can always be found in his liquor cabinet. Jim Beam is sold worldwide and about 25% of all bourbon sold sports a Jim Beam label. Jim Beam's 15 millionth barrel was filled on March 12, 2018. Seven generations of Beam family members have been distilling bourbon in Kentucky for over 200 years. The tour was comprehensive and the facility is expansive. We bottled our own Knob Creek Single Barrel as a souvenir.
Bulleit, Angel's Envy, Evan Williams and The Brown Hotel
Our first day on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail took us to three distilleries: Bulleit, Angel's Envy and Evan Williams. During the day we learned about the process for creating bourbon whiskey and tasted a fair sample of the finished product. Our first tasting was at the old Stitzel-Weller Distillery where we learned about Bulleit Frontier Whiskey. Thomas Bulleit, Jr. began producing Bulleit Frontier Whiskey in 1987 by reviving an old Bulleit family recipe. Bulleit produces high rye content Bourbon whiskey which has a bold, spicy character. Construction of the Stitzel-Weller distillery facilities there began soon after the end of Prohibition. This place looks like what you'd expect for a historic distillery: old brick buildings surrounded by tall, black rick houses all of which are found in a low lying, trees covered hollow.
Off to Kentucky
Carla dropped Dwayne off at KCI Airport where he joined Dave who flew in from Colorado. Together, they waited a few minutes for Eric to come pick them up in his car for the drive to Louisville, Kentucky where they eventually picked up Martin who flew into Louisville from Germany. Eric arranged to rent a house for the week to use as a base while enjoying some of the finer things in life for which Kentucky is noted: superb bourbon and spirited horses. The objective is to enhance their knowledge and appreciation for that fine American beverage, Bourbon, by completing the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. Additionally, touring several thoroughbred horse farms and spending a day the Keeneland Race Track will make them wiser about thoroughbred horses (and hopefully richer). Time permitting, a visit will be paid to the home of the Louisville Slugger where baseball history has and is still being made. The rendezvous and travel plan was well executed.
New Boat Arrives
Eric and Kelly were all smiles despite the very cold weather when their new to them boat was delivered. Even their daughters rose early and rode along to the lake to check out the boat and claim their "space" for the summer. Dwayne drove out to help move the boat to its slip and lend what advice he could with his limited knowledge of power boats. The marine dealer who brokered the boat had it re-winterized due to the cold weather that arrived between the sea trial and delivery. Luckily, the marina had a boat with an outboard engine which could tow the boat from the launch ramp to its slip so it wouldn't have to be re-winterized again due to starting the engine to move under its own power. It was so cold, the marina had to move the boat doing the towing into the sun for a couple of hours to thaw it out enough to get the engine to start and controls to move. Eventually, the new boat was moved to its slip and now rests secure until warmer weather arrives.
April Fools Easter
After church, Dwayne's kids and grandchildren gathered together a Carla's house for a cold but fun celebration of Easter. Steamers flying horizontal with the ground whipped in the wind as they hung from the tree limbs and pinwheels spun furiously as snow fell on this April Fools Easter. We stayed indoors to keep warm but did not let the weather ruin our festivities. Dinner was a spiral ham, scalped potatoes, green bean casserole, cucumber salad, ambrosia, Hawaiian rolls, Reisling wine and for dessert, the lamb cake. The Easter egg hunt was conducted indoors with the children taking turns hiding each others' eggs. This was a big hit with the kids. They also engaged in a "crack the egg" game which involved tapping the ends of hard boiled eggs against someone else's hard boiled egg to see which egg would crack first. The winner of the game was the person whose egg was cracked no more than once. We kept a roaring fire going in the fireplace to provided warmth and it seemed appropriate due to the falling snow outside. Hopefully, next Easter will be sunny and warmer.
Sea Trial
Dwayne headed out to the Lake of the Ozarks with Eric and Kelly to test ride the Chaparral 256 Deck Boat they intend to purchase. It was a beautiful, sunny day with smooth water and hardly anyone on the lake. After a briefing on the boat and its operation by one of the marina employees, Eric took the wheel and was grinning from ear to ear as he maneuvered the boat around the lake eventually running her up to 50 miles per hour. (10 times faster than the average cruising speed for Foreign Affair). The boat was very stable and performed well. Next, Dwayne had his turn in the driver's seat. He kept the speed down but did cross a few wakes before turning the controls over to Kelly. She was a bit apprehensive at first. However, it was not long before she became more comfortable with the boat's handling. Overall, everything went well. It looks like we'll be having a super fun time on the water this summer. Carla will love this boat (she likes open bows and soft cushions) If all goes as planned, the boat will be delivered in a week and a day.
Home Again
We boarded our Southwest Airline flight shortly before noon. It was a quick flight to Kansas City where Dwayne and Carla bid Brian and Janet farewell. They continued on to Baltimore. So, here ends our 10 week journey around the world. It was a wonderful ride and we have definitely been busy, out and about exploring our wonderful world. Amazingly, the weather was almost perfect and did not disrupt any of our plans. The few times it rained, we were sleeping, traveling or endured the few drops that fell on us without much inconvenience. There was no lost luggage or items stolen from us along the way. We never went hungry or lacked a decent place to sleep. We were well prepared and very lucky to have avoided any major setbacks. It was a great learning experience and a once in lifetime event. We will continue our travels; however, at a slower pace and not cover over 40,000 miles in a continuous journey. Here are some highlights of our grand adventure.
Universal Studios
It was off to Universal Studios to learn more about making movies and to have some fun at the theme park. The studio tour was a good compliment to the one we had at Warner Brothers. Besides the studios, we were treated to a few special effects thrills and 3D adventures. We were able to get into the Special Effects attraction right after the studio tour. It was entertaining and interesting to learn more about various techniques used to enhance our visual and audio experience and how special effects transform the small movie set into a limitless big screen spectacular. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter was particularly popular and crowded. We waited almost an hour to get into Hogwarts Castle. Carla was particularly excited about this since she had endured a Harry Potter movie marathon a few months ago with the granddaughters. Dwayne and Janet took a quick run through the Walking Dead attraction which was really a dead experience when compared to the horror houses located in the KC Bottoms. It was no wonder there wasn't a long line to this activity. We went to The Three Broomsticks for our Great Feast Platter and some butterbeer. The ribs were perfect and we had plenty of food. After dinner, we walked a bit to settle our stomachs before heading back to the hotel to rest and pack for tomorrow's return flight home. It has been a wonderful adventure of almost 10 weeks and we are ready to have a few days rest before Easter.
La Brea Tar Pits and Venice Beach
Many people advised us not to miss the Le Brea Tar Pits. We took their word and were not disappointed. The museum was well laid out and very informative The pits were enclosed by fences as one would expect for safety. Yet, they gave you a good idea of why they accumulated so many fossils. The park was filled with parents and young kids out for a day in the sun. Our next stop was Venice Beach. Parking there was very challenging or very expensive. We lucked out and found a metered parking spot on the street. It was cool at the beach but not cold. There was a lot of activity along the boardwalk but nothing like it would be once the weather warmed. We took a few pictures and headed back to the hotel to catch the KU-Duke game which KU won in overtime. Another great end to a wonderful day.
Warner Brothers Studios, Hollywood Museum, Madame Tussauds and LA Tours
We left our hotel early to get to Warner Brothers Studios to catch an early tour. Traveling through the vast complex was quite interesting. It is amazing how much filming can be done in such a small place both among the many outdoor sets and within the sound studios. We were able to see people from various departments working on set construction and fabrication of items needed for both movie and television productions. Many of the sound studios dated back to the 1930s and some of our favorite movies were filmed in whole or part at these facilities. We followed our tour of Warner Brothers with a visit to the Hollywood Museum, Madam Tussauds Wax Museum and ended the day with a bus tour of Hollywood and the surrounding neighborhoods. Once again, the weather was perfect and we had a wonderful, full day of sight-seeing.
Long Beach Whale Watch Cruise and Aquarium
We bought some 4-Day Los Angeles Go City Passes and headed to Long Beach for the day. We booked our whale watch tour and headed to the aquarium while waiting for our boat ride to watch the whales. The Long Beach aquarium was one of the finest we have seen. It included tropical, as well as, indigenous species. There were several "touching pools" and a seal/sea lion show. We particularly liked the exhibits which replicated the agitation provided by tides and waves. It gave you a better appreciation of the effect of moving water on the fish and other creatures than would a tank with less of a water flow. The jelly fish, coral, star fish and tropical fish are always among our favorites. Dwayne was especially surprised to see some puffin swimming in one exhibit. He, his sister and mother made a trip to Maine just to see these birds on the US-Canadian border where they live. The whale watch resulted in the sighting of 2 fin whales and 3 grey whales. Not much dramatic action from the whales. Mostly, just blow spouts and an occasional fin. Once again, great weather.
Aukland to Los Angeles
We departed the HakaLodge around 10 a.m. after a light breakfast of coffee, toast and Havarti cheese. The airport was a 12 mile drive and it took little time to get to the international terminal. Checking in, clearing customs and security went smoothly. This terminal has the best security clearance operation we have seen anywhere. We were soon in the Strata Lounge, connected to wifi and enjoyed a wonderful range of food and beverages while we waited to board our flight for LA. The Beef Wellington was done just right. The pettifor and rice pudding deserts were a great treat. Dwayne found his Mount Gay Rum and Jameson Irish Whiskey. Brian had a wide choice of beers. No wonder the Aukland Strata Lounge has such a high rating. Great food, wide selection of drinks and comfortable accommodations. They even have a separate section for kids with movies for children shown on a big screen display. We hope the flight will be as pleasant as our time in the lounge. The plane is supposed to be a Boeing 787. It could be as much as a 12 hour flight or as short as 11 1/2 hours. We hope they have good movies during the flight.
Mt. Maunganui to Aukland
The drive to Aukland took us through cropland, vineyards and grazing lands surrounded by volcanic mountains. We made a stop in Waihi where New Zealand's largest showing of antique cars was underway. Many of the vehicles were very familiar to us as they included: Chevies, Fords, Dodges, and other American brands to include at least a few AMC models such as an American Motors Ambassador. The manager of the motel we stayed at in Mt. Manganui had his Packard on display. He advised us of the event and said over 100,000 people show up over the weekend. We had a good time viewing the autos and found a grill serving bratwurst for only NZ$2.50 (cheap and good). We topped it off with some "bee sting" or Beinenstich made by an authentic German baker. It was a wonderful way to spend our last full day in New Zealand. We had a tasty dinner at a Malasysian restaurant which was across the street from the HakaLodge where we spent the night. The owner/hostess gave us good recommendations on what to order. We were not disappointed and there were virtually no left overs. We finished our last bottle of wine and went to bed ready for our departure for Los Angeles the next day. The overseas adventure came to an end on a good note. The entire trip was superb.
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